第 24 卷第 6 期（2017）

遠紅外線、三維捲曲、低熔點聚酯纖維針軋不織布，複合不同夾層碳纖維、玻璃纖維、導電高分子薄膜針織物，在變化針軋速度下，以不同纖維混紡比及夾層物結構，依TN037標準燈照溫度80℃，探討複合不織布之阻燃特性。結果顯示，占80%高捲曲纖維阻熱溫度達5.88℃，三層導電高分子薄膜夾層複合不織布阻熱達19.91℃，四層導電高分子薄膜夾層複合不織布阻熱溫度可達25.10℃，針軋速度提升可增加纖維糾纏性，使厚度減小，但亦容易造成針軋孔洞。

In this research using TN037 standard lamp in 80℃, explore the properties of flame retardant on different non-woven textiles . For example: Far infrared, three-dimensional crimp, low melting polyester ,carbon fiber, glass fiber, aluminum and foil, also include under varying needle rolling speed and different fiber blending ratio and laminated material structure. The results showed that 80% highly crimped fiber heat have resisted 5.88 ℃,and nonwoven with foil in three-layer structure, its can resisted 19.91 ℃, nonwoven with aluminum in four-layers structure, Thermal resistance of this nonwoven…

棉纖維用活性染料染色時，竭染率低，殘液中含有大量的無機鹽等，這會造成嚴重的環境汙染、資源浪費等問題。本文通過優選陽離子醚化劑格林蘭對純棉織物進行陽離子改性，以實現使用活性染料對純棉織物的無鹽染色。棉織物的最佳改性工藝條件為：兩浴兩步浸漬法，格林蘭用量為4% o.w.f.，pH值9-10，浴比1:20，溫度80℃，時間30分。染色結果表明改性棉織物的K / S值、上染速率等指標均較改性前有所提高，可實現純棉織物的無鹽染色。

When dyeing of cotton fiber with reactive dyes, the lower utilization of reactive dye, high salt dosages and residual dyes have caused serious environmental problem and resources wasting. In this paper, Ge-lin-lan modifier was chosen to modify pure cotton fabric to dye in salt-free dyeing bath, which optimizing the best process of modification. The results showed that the optimum parameters of modification by two-bath exhaustion process are: the dosage of Ge-lin-lan modifier is 4% o.w.f., pH is 9-10, liquor ratio is 20:1, temperature is 80℃, and time is 30min. The result of one-bath exhaustio…

This work aimed at decolorizing PET depolymerization waste liquid (DWL) by electrochemical method. PET fabrics were glycolsized by utilizing excess EG and the glycolsis product was purified through repeated crystallization to get BHET crystal. The waste liquid of the depolymerization process was electrochemical decolored by utilizing chitosan/Fe3O4 nanoparticles as the dispersed electrodes under a 15 V DC voltage. The absorption at 338, 531 and 635 nm which were due to the dyes in DWL decreased with the electrolysis time, while the absorption of EG (322nm) changed slightly. The removal ratio …

本研究是以不織布作為基材製備之無土栽培介質，並利用黃原膠增加其吸水性及保水性改善基材性質。不織布具輕便、易於使用及成本低廉優點，藉由添加膠體改善布體水分易散失等缺點，使其不織布體之無土栽培介質適合植物種植條件，並探討其含水率、保水率、酸鹼值與電導度值。據研究結果可得，在使用黃原膠體3：1混合海藻酸鈉膠體時，其含浸不織布含水率為89.8%，且具有20小時保水效果，其環境酸鹼值維持在適於植物生長的範圍5.5～7.0內。

This study is based on non-woven as a substrate preparation of soilless culture medium, and using xanthan gum to increase its water absorption and water retention to improve the substrate properties. Non-woven have advantages with lightweight, easy to use and low cost. The shortcoming of non-woven water loss is improved by adding colloid, so that non-woven soilless cultivation medium suitable for cultivation plant. And discuss its water content, water retention, pH and conductivity values. From the results showed when xanthan colloid 3: 1 was mixed with sodium alginate colloid, the water cont…

本研究以國際標準ISO 7933為基礎並使用EXCEL VBA建立預測熱應變(PHS)計算模式。此預測計算模式需要較多的參數來評估熱環境下之人體衣著的生理反應，包含環境空氣溫度、環境輻射溫度、環境相對濕度、空氣相對風速、服裝熱阻值(clo)、服裝靜態透濕指數(im)、人體代謝率、作功、身高與體重、行為。為驗證此熱應變計算模式可適用於台灣之適用性，此研究根據台灣中央氣象局提供之氣象資料，並以ISO 9920選擇標準上班服裝與夏季上班服裝於臺北、臺中、臺南三個城市，模擬台灣上班族於平常溫度與高溫高濕兩種之戶外環境條件進行輕活動量之熱生理反應。結果顯示若穿著夏季上班服裝於高溫高濕之臺北在6、7月份有熱危害風險，臺中則在9月份有熱危害風險；若穿著標準上班服裝於高溫高濕之三個地區皆在5~9月份有熱危害風險；兩種穿著於各城市之平常溫度下皆無熱危害風險。結果可知台灣高溫高濕之氣候與服裝間熱生理反應具有相當之關聯性。

This study is based on the international standard ISO 7933 and uses the EXCEL VBA software to establish the predicted heat strain (PHS) model. This model requires some parameters to assess the physiological response of the human body in the thermal environment, including ambient air temperature, ambient radiation temperature, relative humidity, air relative wind speed, clothing thermal resistance, clothing static permeability Index, body metabolic rate, work, height & weight, and behavior. To verify that the predicted heat strain model can be applied to the applicability of Taiwan, this study…

本研究製備天然固色劑，以木質素(Lignin)與丙二醇在酸性催化劑下經聚縮合反應改善木質素之水溶性，使用聚乙二醇變化不同EO鏈長與馬來酸酐進行開環聚合出具醚基之嵌段共聚合物，再通過酯化反應接入葡萄糖，同時通過縮合反應製備一系列水溶性木質素/葡萄糖固色劑。應用性質以酸性染料染尼龍織物，建立評估木質素/葡萄糖型固色劑做為染整用助劑，添加染色助劑之染色現象變化，染料與助劑之相互作用及分散染料之高溫分散效果，再測試染著率、均染性以及水洗牢度。一系列染色助劑之分子構造中含有多重親水基，故起泡性及泡沫安定性均甚低，適合於水溶液低泡之用途。實驗將與其他不同離子型界面活性劑，改變溫度的條件來探討染色效果，依染料之構造不同，呈現緩染及促染效果，其原因為染料及助劑形成複合體之性質不同，對纖維之親和力大小不同所致。通過染色性及水洗牢度實驗，LPG型固色劑比較市售陰、非離子型固色劑，一系?產物具有較佳的均染性、染著性與固色性能。

This study was the first to prepare color fixing agent of natural, lignin and PG under acid catalysis by improvement of water-insoluble lignin, the preparation of PEG and MA segmented copolymer was employed by ring opening polymerization with anhydride and alcohol, followed by esterification glucose to synthesis a series of Lignin/Glucose Fixing Agents. The LPG Type Fixing Agents application at textile fiber, establishment of the dispersion leveling agent of the LPG Type Fixing Agents through the acid dye of dyeing properties in nylon fabrics dyeing, included dispersant properties of acid dye…

在本研究中，我們合成了一系列3-(N,N-二乙基胺基)乙醯苯胺分散性染料，並使用這些染料在超臨界二氧化碳中對聚酯進行染色，並探討了烷基鏈長度對染色強度和染色監牢度的影響。從染色結果可以看出，烷基鏈的長度可能會影響染料的溶解性和染色性。研究發現染料S2的K/S值為17.532，第一次染色相對上染率為80.6％。可以看出，染料S2較其它3支染料適合於超臨界二氧化碳中染聚酯織物。染色堅牢度結果顯示，所有染色樣品的堅牢度均超過4級，都可以滿足工業染色堅牢度要求。

In this study, a series of 3-(N, N-diethylamino)acetamide disperse dyes was synthesis by us, and dyeing using these dye for polyester in supercritical carbon dioxide, and then to investigate the effects of alkyl chain length on color strong and color fastness. From the results of the dyeing shows the length of the alkyl chain may affect the solubility and dyeability of the dyes. The study found that the K/S value of dye S2 was 17.532 and the dye relative up-take at first time was 80.6%. It can be seen that dye S2 is more suitable for dyeing than other 3 dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide on…

本研究以聚乙烯醇(PVA)為原料，改變多糖醇與水的比例，採靜電紡絲法製備具涼感性的空氣過濾用複合膜，探討改變多醣醇的比例對複合膜涼感的影響，並經由電子顯微鏡觀察纖維表面與纖維細度。由實驗結果得知，當多醣醇佔添加的總比例達到20% 時，熱傳導係數與熱散逸值會越高，通過實驗證明添加多糖醇的電紡絲纖維對整體複合膜有涼感的功效。

In this study, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) was used as raw material to change the ratio of polysaccharide alcohol to water, and the composite membrane for air filtration was prepared by electrospinning. The effect of changing the ratio of polysaccharide alcohol on the cold sensation of composite film was discussed. The fiber surface and fiber fineness were observed by electron microscopy. The results show that when the total proportion of polysaccharide alcohols reaches 20%, the thermal conductivity and thermal dissipation value will be higher. The experiment shows that the electrospun fibers add…

本實驗採用柑橘皮作為材料，萃取其色素，並且探討染色之可行性。在不同濃度及pH條件下，觀察主吸收波長與吸光度值，對柑橘皮天然色素做再現性分析，並以硫酸亞鐵、氯化錫、硫酸銅，三種媒染劑對聚酯織物染色，比較其表觀濃度、上色率，及染色堅牢度。實驗結果顯示，柑橘皮色素萃取液再現性之變異係數為31%，染色使用硫酸亞鐵作為媒染劑有最高的表觀濃度，染色堅牢度方面，則以氯化錫為最佳，可達到4級至4-5級。

In this experiment, citrus peel was used as a material, extracted to obtain the colorant of its own. The dyeability of citrus on textiles in various concentrations and pH conditions, determination of its max wavelength and the reproducibility of the natural colorant (citrus peel) by the absorption value at the max are all discussed in this article. In addition, three kinds of mordant ferrous sulfate, stannic chloride, copper sulfate are also used in dyeing polyester fabrics with the natural colorant obtained from this experiment, and the apparent concentration, dye-uptake, and dyeing fastne…

本研究的目的是為了探討春季和夏季布料材質和消費者的選擇動機之間的關係，涉及現行市場材質的應用和行銷理論，並發放問卷給500個消費者，通過操作統計軟件將調查中的所有信息轉換為有價值的數據，並分析得到的每個結果，研究將討論成衣市場是否存在所謂材質的行銷空隙，什麼樣的因素最可能影響消費者選材質，結果表示，包括生活方式、布料的特性、價格、名人的推薦、廣告和消費者的滿意度水平因素都會影響消費者選擇特定材質布料的動機。

The purpose of this study is to identify the relationship between motives aspect and consumers’ purchase behavior of fabrics in spring and summer. The first phase involves marketing theories and information of fabrics. We had surveyed 500 consumers and collected their responses from September to November, 2016. To address this, we transformed all the information from the surveys to valuable data by operating statistic software and analyzed every part of results we had gotten. The research will provide valuable information regarding the “gap” of ready-to-wear market. This information will like…