華岡紡織期刊 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile
ISSN
1025-9678
發行 Publisher
中華民國紡織工程學會
卷 Vol.期 No.248

第 24 卷第 8 期(2017)

Vol. 24 No. 8 (2017)

出版日期 2017-11-09

研究論文Original Research Articles
  1. 525
    臺南孔子廟歷史建築應用於臺灣傳統布袋戲偶衣設計 Applying images of The Tainan Confucius temple in apparel design of Taiwan’s traditional Puppetry
    陳唯珍、徐慧如、張郁雯
    摘要預覽 Preview abstract收合摘要 Hide abstract

    本研究目的係為了傳承、推廣臺灣文化資產,將布袋戲與臺南孔子廟歷史建築特色為靈感主軸,透過意象轉換法將孔廟建築特色設計於布袋戲偶衣,採用外型以孔子廟建築結構及屋簷做結合,色彩挑選根據建築用色去做搭配,布料則採用織錦緞、雪紡紗,配件選擇旗袍扣子、流蘇,以表達建築結構的層次感及中國建築的古典風格,期望以此形式能將珍貴的臺灣文化資產布袋戲及具在地特色的孔子廟歷史古蹟做結合以及推廣,讓更多的人有機會去了解、欣賞與認同這些臺灣珍貴的文化資產。

    The purpose of this study is to help people appreciate Taiwan local cultures and historical buildings. The study applied the Tainan Confucius temple in the apparel design of puppet. The study employed the theory of image transformation to support the process design in the present study. The study combined the building structure of Confucius Temple and eaves in designs of collar and shawl. Color selection was based on the color of Confucius temple itself. The fabric with the woven brocade was selected to present the noble position in the period of Qing dynasty. The accessories, such as cheongs…

    閱讀全文頁面 View article →
    pp. 525-533 摘要
  2. 477
    添加木醣醇對複合電紡絲膜空氣過濾效果之研究 The Cooling Effect of Composite Electrospinning Air Filtration Films by Adding Xylitol
    陳品諭、連健博、潘毅鈞、陳建昇、姚子祥
    摘要預覽 Preview abstract收合摘要 Hide abstract

    本研究以改變木醣醇比例加入聚乙烯醇(PVA)溶液中,以靜電紡絲法製備奈米涼感纖維膜,探討改變木醣醇比例對涼感的影響,並經由電子顯微鏡觀察纖維之間與纖維細度的大小。由研究結果得知,添加木醣醇後會使纖維細度變大,細度範圍在0.18-0.68μm,而且使得複合膜的涼感度上升。當木醣醇與水的比例為8:2時熱傳導係數與瞬間涼感值最佳。

    In this study, nano-cool fiber membranes were prepared by electrospinning in the solution of PVA, and the effects of xylitol ratio on the cold sensation were investigated. The effects of the ratio of xylitol on the cold sensation were observed by electron microscopy. The fineness of the fineness of the fiber. From the results of the study, the addition of xylitol will make the fiber fineness larger, fineness range of 0.18-0.68μm, and make the composite film coolness rise. When the ratio of xylitol to water is 8:2, the thermal conductivity is the best

    閱讀全文頁面 View article →
    pp. 477-481 摘要
  3. 489
    嬰幼兒尿布市場的探索性研究 The Exploratory Research of Babies Diaper Market
    王韻、林雨滋、張家華
    摘要預覽 Preview abstract收合摘要 Hide abstract

    隨著科技的進步,人們的生活也越來越便利,拋棄式尿布正是在傳統尿布改良下所發明出的產物之一。現在最新型的拋棄式尿布不但吸水力強、剪裁合身、甚至尿布外層還有尿濕顯示的貼心設計,擺脫以往傳統尿布的種種不方便,但價格也呈現出正比反應!而隨著全球環保意識抬頭,消費者開始意識到環保的重要,環保人士開始重新推廣傳統尿布。本論文的研究目的,在於整理分析比較傳統尿布和拋棄式尿布產品的特性,以及深入訪談消費者現階段對於這兩種產品的選購及使用情況,以期能幫助嬰幼兒布尿布的綠色行銷,進而改善大自然環境。

    With the progress of technology, people's life becomes more convenient. To improve the traditional diaper, an invention, the disposable diaper is created under these circumstances. The modern disposable diaper can absorb water strongly, fitting for baby better, and some even have the design to see from outside of the diaper if the diaper is wet. The disposable diaper has core competency of convenience which traditional diaper does not have in the past. However with all advantages, the price of disposable diaper is quit expensive especially during economic inflation. Moreover, as the global en…

    閱讀全文頁面 View article →
    pp. 489-497 摘要
  4. 498
    皮夾開版技術分析之研究-以臺灣業界製作規格為例 To Analyze of Techniques of Wallet - Pattern Making in in Leather Goods Industry in Taiwan
    葉建宏、范靜媛、黃泓舜
    摘要預覽 Preview abstract收合摘要 Hide abstract

    產業之興落與專業人才培育具有極大關聯性,因1990年代的產業大量外移,導致皮件專業技術人才需求銳減,因而衍生人才斷層危機;近年政府的致力推動產業輔導方案,使皮件開版技術人才需求逐漸增加,雖產官學三方皆投入袋包與皮件人才培育,但直至今日,不論是大專校院、個人工作室亦是財團法人單位,仍無相關教學專書,僅透過口述及實務觀摩學習,然而皮夾開版製作工序繁複且需極高工藝技術,故研究者透過知識管理將口述之內隱知識轉化為圖表化、文字化之外顯知識,使學習者更淺顯易懂;本研究目的旨在以分析皮夾袋包開版技術,以開放式訪談法探討臺灣業界皮夾之專業術語、開版數據規格,及開版重點等皮夾製作專業知識,提供更多有興趣之學習者學習,未來期盼能透過雲端平臺建構開版資料庫,同時希冀本文能讓皮夾開版技術人才培訓上有所貢獻;針對未來研究建議提出以下三點,(一)增加訪談臺灣皮夾製作之廠商數,以佐證本研究效度;(二)加強皮夾實務製作之重點、處理方式、製作問題及克服方式;(…

    Whether the industry rises or falls is extremely related to cultivating talents. A large number of industries move offshore in 1990, which leads to decreasing demand for leather talents and derives crises on lack of talents. The government has devoted to launching industry mentoring program which makes demands for talents increase. Although the industry, the authority and the academia invest in cultivating talents of bags and wallets, there is no relative class or textbooks in colleges, studios or legal entities to this day. Learners learn relative knowledge only through dictation or observin…

    閱讀全文頁面 View article →
    pp. 498-507 摘要
  5. 534
    尼龍12彈性體延伸薄膜之探討 Oriented Film Properties of Nylon 12 Elastomer
    劉弘仁
    摘要預覽 Preview abstract收合摘要 Hide abstract

    本研究利用雙螺桿押出機押出尼龍12彈性體薄膜,並進行不同倍率雙軸延伸,研究薄膜熱性質與結晶取向關係。首先使用示差掃描量熱儀進行熱性質分析,並探討尼龍12彈性體結晶動力學。再來分析雙軸延伸尼龍薄膜之性質,包括光學性質、氧氣穿透率及水蒸氣穿透率,以及探討薄膜之延伸與結晶度之間的關係。

    In this study, Nylon 12 elastomer film was casted by twin screw extruder and followed by bi-axially stretching with various ratios. In the first part, the thermal properties and crystallization kinetics were analyzed by measuring the heat flow in the adiabatic process by using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Furthermore, the properties of BOPA film were analyzed including optical properties, oxygen transmission rate (OTR), water vapor transmission rate (WVTR) and the relationship among the stretching and the crystallinity.

    閱讀全文頁面 View article →
    pp. 534-538 摘要
  6. 539
    穿戴式感測警示功能智慧運動衣設計 A Design of Wearable Smart Sportswear with Sensing Alert
    林敬文、吳佳珈
    摘要預覽 Preview abstract收合摘要 Hide abstract

    地球的暖化及臭氧層的破壞,使得地球溫??斷升高,紫外線指?破表,對人體產生?一定的危害,為避免人們??在過?的紫外線下,容?使肌膚黑色素生成、?化鬆弛、產生皺紋,甚至是皮膚癌,人們也紛紛的改變其生活作息,許多的夜間活動悄悄盛行起來,尤其?少運動民眾紛紛改成晚上跑步運動夜跑,對此而言,晚上運動,視線?像白天清楚,夜間運動可能發生的意外及安全性問題,也開始?人擔憂,此問題是值得好好思考、研究其解決方法。本研究以關懷夜間徒步?動人群(尤其是夜跑者)之安全為出發點,擬結合穿戴式科技,設計一款穿戴式智慧衣能感測環境??,當夜間或陰天等??過低、或由照明較佳的街道區進入較昏暗的街道區,主動判斷啟動LED 等致動原件閃爍,主動警示周遭?動之?輛駕駛或?人,避免因未能注意到而產生碰撞傷亡意外,提高夜間?動者(夜跑者)之安全的智慧衣。

    Because of the Global Warming, the temperature of the Earth and the UV index are keeping rising. Exposing under UV for too long will produce the melanin inside your skin, make you looks aging and wrinkled, even lead you to skin cancer. To avoid these problems, people start noticing that they have to change their living habit. Lots of night activities start to be more and more common. For example, people who usually like to jog at day time changed their time to the night. About this, jogging at night, the visual range doesn’t clearly as daytime, it may cause an accident and safety problem at n…

    閱讀全文頁面 View article →
    pp. 539-545 摘要
  7. 546
    長跑運動之主觀舒適與足壓間關係 Relation between Subjective Comfort and Foot Pressure of Shoes During
    JING-li, HaiBin-Yu QuanShou-Zeng
    摘要預覽 Preview abstract收合摘要 Hide abstract

    本研究採用主觀舒適評分量表和足底壓力測試的方法,對20公里跑步中的舒適性及足底壓力變化進行測量,並結合機械測試方法,對跑鞋的舒適性變化規律及原因進行探究。研究發現,業餘跑者在20公里跑步後,鞋內足底壓?的顯著上升,主要?第一跖骨區、足弓內側區和足跟區。跑者的舒適評分在跑步過程並非恆定不變,而是隨跑步持續呈下降趨勢。機械減震測試結果顯示,20公里跑步後,鞋底材料的?震性能顯著衰?,同時回彈性能出現顯著上升。

    To test the relation between the foot pressure and the subjective comfort during 20 km running. The results show that after 20 km run, the foot pressure was significantly increased, mainly for the first metatarsal, medial arch and heel area. The score of comfort is not constant, it is decreasing during running. The test of mechanical shock results show that after 20 km running the sole material shock absorption significantly reduced, while rebound performance significant increased.

    閱讀全文頁面 View article →
    pp. 546-549 摘要
  8. 508
    DNA/幾丁聚醣製備3D多孔支架之成形性研究 Study on Formability of 3D Porous Scaffolds Prepared by DNA / Chitosan
    陳宣宇、張志鵬
    摘要預覽 Preview abstract收合摘要 Hide abstract

    本研究是以固定去氧核醣核酸(DNA)濃度為5%以及不同濃度幾丁聚醣(Chitosan)分別為1%、2%、3%製成3D多孔支架,利用傅立葉可見光吸收光譜儀得知皆含有DNA以及幾丁聚醣之特定官能基。3D多孔支架的孔徑大小會隨著均質機轉速的增加而有所減少,孔隙率會隨著轉速與幾丁聚醣濃度的提高而越來越小,孔隙率都能維持在80%以上,3D多孔支架會隨著幾丁聚醣濃度增加,成形性越佳。

    In this study, 3D porous scaffolds were prepared with fixed DNA concentration of 5% and chitosan at different concentrations of 1%, 2% and 3%. Porosity will be with the speed and chitosan concentration increased and smaller, porosity can be maintained at 80% or more. 3D porous Scaffolds will increase with the chitosan concentration, the formability will better.

    閱讀全文頁面 View article →
    pp. 508-512 摘要
  9. 513
    中國傳統紋飾應用於提花針織布花紋設計之研究 Research on the Design of Chinese Traditional Patterns in the Design of Jacquard Knitted Fabric
    王嫈秀、袁汾、袁泠
    摘要預覽 Preview abstract收合摘要 Hide abstract

    隨著中國風時尚風潮席捲全球,在流行時尚服飾中加入中國傳統服飾的設計元素蔚為風潮,其中又以傳統紋飾的應用深受世界各國著名服裝設計師青睞。所謂紋飾,是器物上的裝飾花紋的總稱,中國傳統紋飾有著深刻的歷史傳統文化意蘊,展現著中華民族光輝燦爛的歷史,也是五千年文化藝術的結晶。紋飾依結構不同可分為對稱紋飾、連續紋飾、獨立紋飾等;依造形可分為花草紋、禽鳥紋、字形紋、線形紋,以及少許鑲綴性的裝飾。傳統的紋飾圖案其相對的獨立性使它們可以大量地移植到現代服裝中,但傳統圖案只有與具有現代時尚造型的服裝相結合在一起才更符合現代人的審美需求。過去對於中國傳統紋飾應用於服裝上,多以印花、鑲綴、電繡、梭織電子提花圖案等方式呈現,本研究中國傳統紋飾應用於提花針織布花紋設計嘗試將傳統紋飾以電腦軟體,利用點陣式繪圖設計出,在設計時對原本繁複的紋飾加以簡化,保留圖紋的原創及古意,但透過現代設計觀念,呈現新的面貌。

    Chinese style fashion has become a trend all over the world. Among them is traditional pattern that favored most by designers. These traditional patterns have long and deep cultures, showing brilliant history of China. The patterns can be categorized by structures as symmetry, continuous and independent; or by shape as flora, fauna, fonts, linearity and embellishment. Independence of traditional pattern can be transplanted into modern dressing. But in order to fit in with modern aesthetics, it needs to be combined with modern fashion. In the past, applications of Chinese pattern are mostly us…

    閱讀全文頁面 View article →
    pp. 513-518 摘要