第 26 卷第 1 期（2019）

旗袍一直被視為中華民族服飾的典型代表，亦能完美詮釋東方女性之美。近年來各國服飾品牌與服裝設計師紛紛以東方特色做為服飾創作，旗袍足以代表東方特色的服裝，其文化內涵早已深入國際時尚圈。本創作經文獻分析與材質試驗，將旗袍元素如滾邊、旗袍領、版型等應用於鞋樣設計，使用皮革取代旗袍常用的織錦緞，從多種旗袍款式細節發展創作，探析旗袍意象與鞋樣有更多創作可能。

Cheongsam has always been regarded as a typical representative of the Chinese nation dress, perfect interpretation of the beauty of Oriental women. In recent years, clothing brands and fashion designers have to the East as a costume creation. Cheongsam enough to represent the characteristics of the East clothing, it’s cultural connotation has long been in-depth international fashion. This creation works used the literature analysis and material testing, the cheongsam elements such as piping, cheongsam collar, version type applied to shoes design. The use of leather to replace cheongsam common…

臺灣因受地理位置、季風和颱風等影響，天氣經常為潮濕的雨天，因此，雨具對台灣人而言是生活中不可或缺的用品。探討國內外雨衣的發展歷史，發現許多歐美國家已將雨衣融入時尚概念，他們不只販售具實用性的時尚雨衣，雨衣更成為服裝發表會上的時尚藝術品。反觀台灣的雨衣款式，多為單色調的輕便雨衣與防風雨衣。本研究以高雄美麗島捷運站大廳的「光之穹頂」大型公共藝術作為靈感來源，創作出兼具時尚感與台灣在地特色的雨衣。

In Taiwan, the weather is always wet and rainy because of the geographical location, monsoon and typhoon. Therefore, rain gears are indispensable items for Taiwanese people. This study explores the history and development of raincoats in both Western and Eastern countries. The findings show that many European and American designers had begun to integrate fashion aesthetics into raincoats. In addition to selling practical raincoats, the fashion designers also design art rainwear in runway fashion shows. In contrast, the styles of Taiwan's raincoat are monotonous facile raincoats and rainwear. …

論及馬甲的發展，其起源可追溯到西元3世紀的愛琴海文明與古羅馬時期。馬甲存在的意義是為了凸顯女性體態之美。但在文藝復興時期卻發生了變化，由凸顯支撐女性體態之本意，轉變為過度的表現，最後反而造成骨折、缺氧、脊椎變形等傷害。現今的社會裡，馬甲演變成為女性所謂的『內衣』，其功能為遮蔽以及保護乳房，也是現今女性的一大特徵。本研究以探討西方與東方在馬甲文化上的發展，並分析其外型設計與用途發展與時代景況。本研究以分析西方馬甲文化在中國內衣上的發展與應用表現。

On the development of the vest, its origins can be traced back to the 3rd century AD Aegean civilization and the ancient Roman period. The meaning of the existence of vest, the beginning is to show the beauty of the female body, and in the Renaissance period, we can see the changes in its meaning, originally in order to support the female body, need to use such hard objects to support the body, but eventually cause fractures, Hypoxia, spine deformation and other injuries. In today's society, the vest has evolved into what we call the "underwear", a feature that shields and protects the breast…

近年來通路商競爭激烈，無人商鋪已成為新興的零售通路，且逐漸改變消費者的生活習慣，也創造新的商業行為，而本研究以等人口統計、知覺價值、購買意願等變數探討。研究調查所得之全體樣本是318份，其中有效樣本數為291份；透過敘述性統計分析、因素分析及重新命名、信效度分析、t檢定、單因子變異數分析和相關係數分析，檢定所探討之各項問卷假設。根據分析結果及文獻探討得知，消費者購買服飾的第一考量因素為價格，最不被考量的因素為品牌。購買原因第一名，剛好逛到佔40%，第二慣用品牌佔16%，第三則是品牌形象良好佔15%，代表除了商店設點位置之外，品牌知名度也是重要因素，多數消費者是選擇方便的地區購物，消費者會選擇熟悉的品牌。因此像服裝這類標準產品可替代性的競爭激烈較高，品牌推廣和人潮地點是自動販賣機販賣服飾的重要因素。快時尚服裝品牌在進行市場營銷的過程中，目標定位是比較準確的，把握消費者需求的營銷是其獲得市場更大份額的基礎所在目標客群。

In recent years, the competition of channel distributors has become fierce. Unmanned shops have become an emerging retail channel, and gradually change consumers' living habits and create new business behaviors. This study explores variables such as demographics, perceived value, and purchase intention. The total number of samples obtained from the survey was 318, of which 291 were valid; through narrative statistical analysis, factor analysis and renaming, reliability and validity analysis, t-test, single-factor variance analysis and correlation coefficient analysis, the Institute Explore th…

隨著科技日新月異，材質種類逐漸多變，本研究首先探討材質、袋包材料與2018年春夏袋包材質之相關文獻，深入了解材質多項種類與設計上之應用，作為本研究案例之設計依據；研究者以「童趣」為創作主題，以休閒外出之生活型態為設計主軸，創作一系列三款袋包，手提包、肩背包及手拿包，設計者採用市面上的石化原料製品之IKEA環保袋與透明筆袋，兩種相同的防水材質作為主要素材，並利用鮮豔的副料強調色彩畫龍點睛之搭配效果，此外細部設計以拼接口袋增加實用功能。

With the rapid development of science and technology, the types of materials are gradually changing. This research firstly explores of "different materials", thoroughly explores the application of many different types and designs of "different materials", and then conducts practical baggage design and creation. Using "childrenlike" as the theme of leisure travel lifestyle, the researchers created a series of three bags, shoulder bags, handbags and purse. In this study, the environmental protection bags on the market and the transparent pencil case the same waterproof material as the main fabr…

本研究應用環錠細紗機上加裝一組長纖餵入裝置，紡製長短纖包覆紗，由改變尼龍絲固定餵入間距位置，或藉由控制系統與伺服馬達來移動長紗餵入口，評估長纖包複紗外觀物性。透過改變長纖餵位置，影響長纖抱合成複合紗的張力，生產長纖與短纖不同撚度的包覆紗。本研究使用尼龍與天絲棉(Tencel) 粗紗進行撚製。長纖餵入位置以每4mm為間距，分為固定距離0mm、4mm、8mm、12mm、16mm等五個變因紡製包覆紗。實驗結果顯示，不同紡紗間距位置影響包覆紗外觀撚度、強伸力、直徑等，長短纖位置最接近時，長纖撚度較小、紗線直徑較細。

This study add a series of filament feeding devices on the traditional ring spinning frame to spinning staple and filament covered yarn. Our purpose is product the yarn which is combine with staple and filament’s advantages. So changed the twist by adjusting filaments’ feeding distance, residence time and moving speed. In addition, this experimental want to know the space how to impact on the yarn’s physical properties. The test sample is Nylon filament and Tencel roving covered yarn. Then, feed the filament and use the control system to change the feeding distance. The test distance have 0mm…

國外服飾品牌積極來台展店，加上國內零售店家林立，市場競爭激烈。為了在競爭激烈的市場中生存，服飾零售業者試圖以獨特店面陳列來吸引消費者的注意力、使其對商品產生興趣，進而購買。良好的店面陳列設計能有效吸引顧客，是行銷營運很重要的目標。然而以消費者的角度，探討其對商店陳列設計要素偏好文獻卻極為稀少，本研究目的主要探究影響消費者購買意願之商店陳列設計因素，以網路發放問卷方式進行調查。結果顯示這個便利取樣的族群對於服飾風格喜好是影響他們選擇商店的關鍵因素，其他像是商店外觀、陳列配置、櫥窗、色彩、招牌及宣傳品設計亦是他們選擇進入店內參觀選購的因素。結果亦顯示絕大部分受訪者偏好開架式的衣服陳列方式勝於摺疊擺放方式；喜歡具明亮燈光效果的賣場勝於採用昏黃燈光的空間設計；偏愛服裝商品以種類分區，例如：裙子，勝於以顏色分類展示方式；相較於香氛，音樂更能提升購物興趣。此外，具獨特性的商品包裝、購物袋及主題式的陳列也能激發購買意願。所得之結果，能提供給…

As more and more global branded-name apparel companies are establishing new stores in Taiwan and the numbers of local retailer stores are prosperously growing, the market is full of competition. In order to survive in the market, retailers devote store design and product display techniques to draw consumer’s attention, increase interests toward products, and facilitate purchasing. Creating excellent store design and product display is the major goal of marketing operation. However, study of store design and product display is scarce. The purpose of this study was to investigate components of …

本研究主要以縫編不織布作為基材，以不同磷系阻燃劑與壓克力樹脂濃度，壓吸至縫編不織布後，探討基材上劑後的阻燃性能。以利用於汽車用電纜包覆材，本實驗使用阻燃劑濃度：3%、4%、5%、6%、7%及樹脂濃度：0.9%、1.8%、2.7%、3.6%、4.5%，以壓吸機壓力1kgf/cm2製作樣本進行實驗，經水平燃燒試驗法後，測得最佳濃度7%阻燃劑與4.5%壓克力樹脂之燃燒速率達86.8mm/min，符合車輛研究中心以CNS13387制定之合格標準，燃燒速率不超過102mm/min為合格，若超過102mm/min，但在開始計時後60秒熄滅，且燃燒距離未超過51mm，或無法燃燒至計時起始線即熄滅亦為合格。

In this research, used Stitch-bond non-woven fabric as the base material, adding phosphorus-based flame retardants and acrylic resins in order to change the content of the flame retardant resin, also investigate about the flame properties of the substrate after apply. This experiment have used flame retardants e.g. 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7% and resin consistence of 0.9%, 1.8%, 2.7%, 3.6%, 4.5%, using pressure ventilator to pressure on 1kgf / cm2 for the sample production. And the best consistence of the flame retardants on the fabric was7%, and the resin agent was 4.5%.And about the burn rate does n…

本實驗採用十字斷面聚酯加工絲與Greencell長纖維原絲作為鞘紗，並以Lycra彈性纖維作為芯紗，而兩種鞘紗分別為第一包繞之情況下在不同撚度及撚向進行實驗討論。實驗中撚度為TPM 100、500、900三種撚度，撚向為SZ、ZZ、ZS、SS四種撚向，以及兩種紗線使用不同包繞順序。實驗結果顯示：在撚度超過500時超過飽和撚度，三種撚度中，強伸度大小順序為TPM 500>100>900。在撚向相反時比起撚向相同時，擁有更好的紗線結構穩定性，其強伸度大小為撚向相反>撚向相同。

In the study, the elastic double covering yarn composed of sheath yarn that consist of cross-section polyester draw texturing yarn and Greencell? filament yarn and core yarn that consist of Lycra?. The effect of 1st covering yarn selection, twist direction in SZ, ZZ, ZS and SS and the nominal turns per meter (TPM) of 100, 500 and 900 were studied. From results, TPM of 500 was over maximum nominal turns per meter. The yarn breaking force and elongation was highest when the TPM was 500 and lowest when TPM was 900. Yarn structure was more stable and the yarn breaking force and elongation was inc…