華岡紡織期刊 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile
ISSN
1025-9678
發行 Publisher
中華民國紡織工程學會
卷 Vol.期 No.211

第 21 卷第 1 期(2014)

Vol. 21 No. 1 (2014)

出版日期 2015-09-29

研究論文Original Research Articles
  1. 1
    探討反應性染料染著鎂合金板材之耐日光性 Investigate the Resistance to Sunlight of Dye Magnesium Alloy Plate by Reactive Dye
    廖盛焜、李秉哲、葉瀗元、賴政佑、林靖恆
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    鎂合金因其質輕和價格低廉等特性,在各個產業中的使用量日益增加,但因其不耐腐蝕,限制許多作用,所以使用微弧氧化技術作表面處理,又在市場的需求下,外觀也日益受到重視。本實驗使用微弧氧化後的AZ31鎂合金板材,使用反應性染料成功對其進行染色,但其耐日光牢度差,無法達到工業上照射200小時的要求。本實驗用不同染色條件探討其耐日光牢度,然後進行耐日光改善處理,由實驗結果顯示在pH12溫度70℃濃度3%下塗佈後可從50小時提升到200小時,且有最佳△E值為4.06,為改善耐日光最佳的條件。

    Features such as lightweight and inexpensive of magnesium, increasing use of in various industries. But its impatience corrosion, it limit many of the functions. Therefore, using the micro-arc oxidation (MAO) to improve it. Appearance is also more and more attention of the commercial demand. In this study, using micro-arc oxidation on the AZ31 magnesium alloy sheet and reactive dyes successfully dyed in the micro-arc on the magnesium alloy sheet. But it show poor light fastness. It can not requirements of industry exposure in irradiation200 hours. This experiment to investigate the light fast…

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    pp. 1 摘要
  2. 8
    多紡口結構於近場電紡的機能PVDF壓電纖維研製 Study of functional PVDF piezoelectric fibers by means of multiple spinnerets structure using near-field electrospinning process
    潘正堂、顏仲崑、林晏良
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    本研究設計ㄧ新穎的多紡口電紡結構,搭配近場靜電紡絲製程技術(Near-field Electrospinning),達到同時電紡多根PVDF纖維的目標,再導入玻璃滾筒式收集方式,製作出批量綑狀且高機能的聚偏氟乙烯(Polyvinylidene fluoride, PVDF)壓電纖維。製程中,藉由定量注射幫浦的輔助,使PVDF溶液裝填於以印刷電路板(Printed circuit board, PCB)與錫球結構製作的多紡口系統結構中,施予1.0*107至1.6*107V/m的環境電場,使PVDF液滴而形成泰勒錐狀(Taylor cone),其突破表面張力形成極細的PVDF壓電纖維,並批量收集於滾動中的玻璃滾筒。從玻璃滾筒取下的PVDF壓電纖維,藉由掃描式電子顯微鏡(Scanning electron microscope, SEM)與微型拉伸強度測試(Microforce tensile testing)量測出本PVDF壓電纖…

    In this study, we improve the near-field electrospining by multi-nozzle spinnerets with a glass cylindrical collector in order to produce multi-fibers at a time and fabricate mass and cluster-shape and functional permanent piezoelectricity of PVDF (Polyvinylidene fluoride) fiber arrays. Throughout the process, the PVDF macromolecular solution was filled in multi-nozzle spinnerets structure composed of the designed Printed circuit board and Solder ball structures. With quantitative injector and high electric field: 1*107-1.6*107V/m, PVDF drops can be observed to form Taylor cones and overcame …

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    pp. 8 摘要
  3. 18
    加強顧客溝通與品牌形象傳遞之策略探討–以A品牌羽絨成衣公司為例 Strategies of Strengthen Customer Communication and Transfer Brand Image - A Company as an Example
    C. H. Chen, Chi-Jen Wu, C. H. Tung, C. C. Hsu
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    本研究主要針對個案公司與顧客溝通的方法與品牌形象傳遞的策略進行分析探討,並經由訪談後整理而成的發現提出建議。研究目的包括準確地向消費者傳遞品牌價值、找出本土品牌在顧客溝通上出現的問題,以及如何運用不同行銷手法與消費者連結。本研究以PZB缺口模式為基礎,透過深度訪談的方式來探討個案公司如何經由內部所擁有的資源與能力,進而擬定出品牌形象傳遞之策略。

    The research is about the strategies of conveyance brand image and analysis the connection between company and costumer. We propose our proposal after we survey and collating information. The research purposes including how to convey brand image accurately and find the problem of customer communication in the local brand. Also how to connect with customer in different marketing practices. The research base on PZB service quality model. Investigate the company how to develop strategies of conveyance brand image with their ability and internal resources in the depth interview. We also depth int…

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    pp. 18 摘要
  4. 25
    籃球鞋避震與摩擦之長期機能效應研究 A Long-term Functional Study of cushion and friction for Basketball Footwear
    許伯強、何維華、許家麒
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    籃球運動中籃球鞋是不可或缺的重要工具之一,長期使用籃球鞋如能預測各階段耗損情形,及時汰舊換新即可避免下肢運動傷害。本研究目的觀察籃球鞋長期使用之前足避震性與摩擦性在各個階段的功能變化。以12位高中甲組球員穿著市售籃球鞋 (Adidas MisterFly),每20小時進行避震與摩擦材料測試共進行140小時。結果顯示籃球鞋在長期使用避震性與摩擦性在80小時為預警指標,100小時為淘汰指標。根據本研究的結果則可預測出籃球鞋各個階段使用情形,如達預警與淘汰指標則可及時汰舊換新。透過基礎研究結合與產業設計開發,本研究能為開發出具體的科學驗證及開發創新運動鞋款,增加銷售量與營收。

    Footwear was one of the most important equipment when we play basketball, if we can predict the wastage in each and every usage stage, change new footwear timely, then we can prevent unexpected leg injuries. The purpose of this study was to observe the footwear function decreased of shock and features in each usage stage, and build up forefoot cushion and friction. There was12 HBL players wear Nike basketball footwear, test the cushion and friction result every 20 hours, total test during time 140 hours. The analyses result shows in a long term usage of the basketball footwear, cushion and fr…

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    pp. 25 摘要
  5. 32
    聚乳酸纖維紡絲加工與其性質之探討 The Study of Polylactic acid Fiber Spinning and its Properties
    張智欽、楊渝絜、李俊輝、李俊毅、莊才晉、涂益仁
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    本研究主要在探討不同規格的聚乳酸(PLA)之物理及熱性質,並選用出適當的聚乳酸原料,經熔融紡絲製成POY纖維,量測其在不同參數設定下之伸度與強度等,再依據參數的設定,假撚成DTY纖維,並且對紡製而成的DTY纖維做初步的探討,以建立適用於紡絲及紡織之聚乳酸原料技術與完整的聚乳酸紡絲及紡織品最佳化製程之加工參數,促進聚乳酸纖維材料的應用層面。由結果中得知PLA 6201D為最合適之原料,在紡絲速度為3000m/min之POY纖維之纖維品質較佳。又以假撚機之加工速度為600m/min及延伸率為1.45者可得出較佳的強度及伸度的DTY纖維。因此DTY纖維的假撚機參數設定中延伸比的設定對於DTY的物化性質有著重要的影響,DTY纖維加工成功與否,POY纖維的強度亦是重要的關鍵之一。

    In this study, we investigate the physical and thermal properties of different specifications of polylactic acid (PLA) for choosing an appropriate material of polylactic acid to spin into POY fiber by melt-spinning. The DTY fiber was prepared depending on the elongation and strength of POY to setting parameters. Finally, the optimize fiber manufactured parameters can be decided by means of analyzing the yarns property. The result indicates that the PLA6201D is an appropriate material for POY and DTY processing .And the spinning speed of 3000m/min and false twisting machine processing speed of…

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    pp. 32 摘要
  6. 37
    專業籃球鞋避震功能時效評估 Timing Effects of Cushioning Analysis for Basketball Shoes
    陳彥百、陳億成、何維華、劉強、許家麒
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    本研究係豐泰公司指定不同專業籃球鞋款經甲組籃球員高強度訓練使用後,評估其避震功能差異,以作為強化籃球鞋避震功能之材料配方或結構調整參考。受試者有38位大專甲組男子籃球員,其中台北市立大學體院9位及台北醫學大學11位穿著NIKE ZOOM Flip’N籃球鞋,德霖技術學院9位及文化大學9位穿著NIKE AIR MAX GO籃球鞋;評估機制係所有球員在穿著指定籃球鞋訓練下,第0、20及40小時分別以赤腳及著鞋狀態下,以測力板記錄3.5 m/s跑步及三步上籃落下之地面反作用力變化,以最大負荷率進行分析。經分析後,NIKE ZOOM Flip’N及NIKE AIR MAX GO於跑步測試下,其後跟避震時變趨勢相似;但在三步上籃落下後之前足避震時變,NIKE AIR MAX GO呈現逐漸遞減與NIKE ZOOM Flip’N無時變現象,呈現明顯差異。研究顯示不同中底、大底材質及結構設計之籃球鞋將影響其避震效果,如何減少籃球員穿著籃球鞋在…

    Feng-Tay Company want to assess the differences of cushioning functions of professional basketball shoes by UBA players that will be cushioning innovative design for basketball shoes by material formulation or structures revise. 38 UBA men's basketball players participated. All players, worn basketball shoes to training courses for 40 hours, included 20 participants worn NIKE ZOOM Flip'N and 18 participants worn NIKE AIR MAX GO basketball shoes. All players were running and layup testing with force-plate when wear shoes training under 0, 20 and 40 hours respectively. Maximal loading rates (M…

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    pp. 37 摘要
  7. 43
    社會變遷中女裝訂作師傅專業生涯發展之探討 Professional Career Development for Couturiers: A World of Change
    劉竹華、范靜媛、黃品甄、李方素芬
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    「女裝訂作師傅」在臺灣早期經濟體系是倍受重視的職業,但隨著社會變遷與產業發展,客製化需求逐漸降低,或其專業能力無法全盤因應服裝成衣化趨勢,許多女裝訂作師傅進而更換跑道,從事其他行業,因而引發研究者意欲探討臺灣女裝訂作師傅隨著社會變遷之專業生涯發展動機;研究方法主要採用個別訪談法,輔以文獻分析法,以立意抽樣選取研究對象十人,研究者親自訪問目前仍在開業之臺灣女裝訂作師傅,透過半結構式訪談提綱瞭解其專業生涯發展,蒐集第一手資料;本研究結果獲致女裝訂作師傅的專業生涯發展歷程受到「內在動機」、「自我價值」、「外在影響」、「專業能力」、「趨勢」、「實現理想」、「薪傳」七大核心概念影響;研究期間與「秀才服裝號有限公司」採取「資源合作」之「專家借調及專家提供」的產學合作模式,共同發現與解決培育服裝產業人才問題,進而對學習女裝訂作者、服裝成衣產業,以及未來研究提出具體可行建議。

    Couturier was a highly valued profession in the early economy system in Taiwan. With the social change and industry development, the needs for customization were greatly reduced. Due to constraints of professional capacity, many couturiers failed to follow trends of finished garments. They chose to change their career and engage in other professions. Thus, the author intends to explore the motivation for career development of couturiers with social change in Taiwan. The study is mainly based on individual interviews, complemented with document analysis method. The researcher visited Taiwan co…

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    pp. 43 摘要