第 21 卷第 3 期（2014）

本研究目的是為了探討在百貨業現況通路逐漸導入新經營型態中，藉由與百貨經營者、女裝品牌經營者、女裝品牌門市及專櫃業者的訪談，得知百貨業者和流行女裝品牌，在經營上結合新型通路的模式，來得到市場分配和維持經營績效。再透過問卷調查法進行資料搜集，將百貨業分為傳統百貨公司和新經營型態之購物商場，提出問題進行資料分析，系統抽樣419位消費者，分析結果顯示消費者對新型態購物中心的購買意願與購物中心的屬性有相關性，且除了性別和婚姻狀況無顯著性，其他包括年齡、教育程度、職業及年收入，皆與新型態的購買意願有顯著性。本研究分析之結論，希望能成為未來探討女裝品牌通路或是百貨業通路資料者的重要參考依據。

This goal of the research is to discuss the operation performance of new business model introduced gradually into present general merchandise industry by questionnaire survey. The survey classified the general merchandise industry into two categories, which are the tradition retail and omnichannel retail. Related people such as general merchandise operator, the female attire brand manager, the female attire brand retail sales and the sale representatives were interviewed in order to design the survey. The valid and reliable questionnaires were 419 copies return from randomly selected customer…

本研究係結合兩種生物可降解性高分子聚乳酸(Poly Lactic Acid, PLA)及聚丁二酸丁二醇酯(Poly(butylene succinate), PBS)之複合材料，並添加紫外線吸收劑(UV-absorbers)及受阻胺光穩定劑(Hindered amine light stabilizers, HALS)延長複合材料於戶外光照下之生命週期，並結合多目標最佳化理論探討此複合材料混煉製程及熔融紡絲法加工製程對不同階段產物品質之影響。 本研究開發分為二階段，第一階段為光穩定性PLA複合材料開發，探討材料複合比例及雙螺桿混煉製程參數對PLA複合材料機械強度之影響，並探討複合材料之光降解性質、熱性質及材料相容性。結果顯示，應用田口法結合主成份分析法(Principal component analysis, PCA)，相較於純PLA可降低彎曲強度27%、提升拉伸強度13.47%及衝擊強度22.95%，且經過480小時紫外…

This study discussed two types of biodegradable polymer composites (polylactic acid and polybutylene succinate). UV absorbers and hindered amine light stabilizers were added to prolong the life cycle of the composite fibers in outdoor lighting conditions. By using the multi-objective optimization theory, this study examined the impact of the composite mixing process and melt spinning process on the product quality in different stages. This study divided the planning into two stages. The first stage was “The polylactic acid composite exploitation”. The aim was to discuss the impact of differ…

近年來隨著地球生態環境的日趨惡化，關於織品服裝產業的環保議題也受到各方的關注。在環保團體的推動之下，許多國際的服飾品牌商陸續承諾會負起環保的責任，這個發展趨勢對於以出口為主的台灣紡織業有重大的意義。另一方面，在全球化下的競爭壓力下，如何克服銷價競爭的困境、找到差異化的關鍵以航向藍海則是台灣廠商近年來努力的方向。本研究選定國內知名的紡織大廠潤泰全球為研究對象，針對它這幾年投入的一款名為輕量淺丹寧的牛仔布之過程進行分析，希望從中理解個案企業是在何種背景與動機之下，決定投入環保布料的開發；其次探討廠商在開發此商品的過程中所碰到的困難，以及支撐商品開發的組織資源；最後針對環保紡織品的市場與行銷現況作檢討，並為未來環保紡織品的發展作出建議。

Textile and clothing industry is one of the most successful businesses in the globalization era. When cheaper clothing from global sourcing fuels the demand of fashion consumption, environmental concerns are emerging all around at the same time. Any clothing, from material sourcing, to a series of manufacturing and processing steps, every section of the production chain causes serious environment destruction, such as resource exhaust, energy and water consumption, and water pollution. This condition is obviously detrimental in the case of cotton denim, which is the most popular kind of fabric…

台灣偏低的結婚率對婚紗攝影禮服產業深具影響，攝影禮服公司依據本身特色，推出最佳經營策略，希望能在競爭激烈的市場，吸引消費者的青睞，希冀能持續成長，永續經營。但產業內廠商的競爭激烈，為了在利基市場獲取有限的資源，更要了解整個產業的競爭態勢。本研究擬以關鍵成功因素分析、五力分析、策略群組分析、生命週期分析、及訪談等研究工具，探討婚紗產業的現況及趨勢。研究結果有助於釐清婚紗產業未來的發展方向，找出影響產業發展的因素，進而提出解決婚紗攝影禮服產業市場日漸萎縮的對策。

Taiwan's low marriage rate is influenced on the wedding dress industry. Wedding dresses company based on its own characteristics. The best strategies have launched. Hoping be able to continue to grow and sustainable. The intense competition was within the industry vendors. The niche market has limited resources. The best strategies have understood the competitive situation of the industry. This study was analysis by key successful factors, five forces, life cycle, strategic group and deep interview. We investigate the current situation and trends of the wedding industry. The results help to c…

本研究是利用液中硬化法結合靜電噴霧法，採用海藻酸鈉為殼材，茶樹精油為芯材，藉由改變殼材濃度、電壓找出最佳成型條件，並探討粒徑對釋放性之影響。實驗結果得到殼材海藻酸鈉2wt%成型性最佳，殼材濃度增加黏度相對增加，粒徑越大，以海藻酸鈉濃度2wt%平均粒徑最大為676.8±4.6?m。採用成型最佳的殼材濃度2wt%包覆芯材在不同電壓下成型，電壓過小及過大皆會影響成型，結果以14kV成型性最佳。在電壓18kv時得到最小平均粒徑為165.8±7.1?m。在36oC下釋放速率未經包覆的茶樹精油明顯比經包覆精油釋放速率快，精油微膠囊釋放速率隨著粒徑減小而增快，其中以10kV釋放時間最長。

This study is the use of liquid hardening method combined with electrostatic spray method, using sodium alginate as shell material, tea tree oil as a core material, by varying the concentration of the shell material, the voltage to find the best molding conditions, and to explore the nature of the particle size on the release affected. The experimental results obtained 2wt% sodium alginate shell material formability best to increase the viscosity of the relative increase in the concentration of the shell material, the greater the particle size, concentration of 2wt% sodium alginate average pa…

本實驗是利用壓克力纖維和銅線組合外加PE管的加入創造不同的空間隔距，使電磁波行多重反射干涉共振使之吸收效果提升，再經由織布打樣機的配合，製造出平紋織物在加入PE管給予空間後，其dB值有明顯的上升，普通的銅線&壓克力纖維(同筘)加撚後，其dB值大幅上升的原因為賦予其空間結構的關係，讓此織物形成3D型態的織物體，帶給該織物提升多重反射干涉共振的次數。

The experiment is to use a combination of acrylic fiber and copper plus adding straw to create different spaces gauge, so the electromagnetic resonance line to make multiple reflection interference effects to enhance the absorption, with proofer, creating a flat fabric after adding straw to give space to form 3D three-dimensional fabric, ordinary copper wire & acrylic fiber (with reed) twist, the sharp rise in its value due to give dB relationship between spatial structure, so that this type of textile fabric form a 3D body, bringing the frequency interference of multiple reflections of fabri…

本實驗一開始先將碳粉、鐵粉、石墨粉分別加入樹脂後，製成板材測其電磁波的吸收值找出最佳的導電性粉體。選出最佳粉體後，藉由3D立體織物建構出一個具有空間性的電磁波吸收板材，之後測量不同比例的粉體對其電磁波吸收的影響，找出最佳的比例並且探討空間對電磁波吸收率的幫助。最後加入Kevlar纖維增加對衝擊強力的抗性，並且嘗試將Kevlar涵浸到樹脂中看是否對電磁波的吸收有幫助，且因加強了強力，此種電磁波吸收材除了可以在裝潢或者是民生用途之外，也可以投入至軍事用途當中。

The experiment started first toner, after iron, graphite powder were added to the resin, made of sheet metal measuring their absorption of electromagnetic waves to find the best conductive powder. After choosing the best powder, with the 3D fabric to construct an electromagnetic wave absorption sheet with spatial and then measure the impact of their different proportions of powder absorption of electromagnetic waves, to find the best proportions and explore space absorption of electromagnetic waves help. Finally, adding Kevlar fibers increased resistance to impact strength, and try to immerse…

本研究利用鋁和碳纖維的導電特點，使用兩種纖維去製成平紋織物，以鋁線為經紗，碳纖維為緯紗，再以增加電磁波多重反射空間的材料，去製成不同鋁線隔距的織物，與改變鋁線粗細的方式以及比較有無PE管對電磁波吸收值的影響。由實驗可得知，隔距10mm的試片電磁波吸收效果最好，吸收值在25dB，隔距小於10mm的試片由於空隙小則造成大部分電磁波直接反射所以不易造成多重反射干涉共振則吸收效果差，而經過不同粗細鋁線的測試發現直徑12mm的試片吸收效果最好，吸收值在29dB，經由有無PE管與固定鋁線隔距與粗細的試片測試，發現有PE管的吸收值整體數值比無PE管的吸收值高。

In this study, the conductivity of aluminum and carbon fiber characteristics, the use of plain weave fabric two fibers to be made to aluminum as the warp yarns, carbon fiber as the weft, and then to increase the space for electromagnetic multiple reflection material, to fabrics made of different gauge wire, and change the way aluminum thickness and to compare whether the plastic tube on the impact of electromagnetic wave absorption values. Can be learned from the experiment, 1.0cm specimen gauge electromagnetic wave absorption works best absorption value in 25dB, less than 1.0cm specimen gaug…

本研究以不同比例的鈦酸鋇粉與水性pu製作高介界層對紗線發光亮度與紗線塗佈的影響，利用漸縮塗佈方式與加入輔助線使發光紗線塗佈均勻及增加發光紗線長度，並測試紗線的耐彎折及紗線織成織布時的耐日光影響及耐磨損影響，水性pu與鈦酸鋇粉配比為5:1時因黏度、發光差異性低而較適合漸縮微塗佈法製作發光紗線，發光紗線加入輔助線時發光長度可到10公尺以上，發光紗線經耐彎折後耐彎折性質不佳。

In this study, different ratios of BaTiO3 with water based PU production high dielectric layer to affect the yarn coated and the yarn luminous brightness, the use of micro convergent tubes and adding auxiliary lines to make luminous yarn coating uniformity and increased the luminous yarn length, and test the yarn of resistance to bending and the affect of yarn woven into fabric resistant to sunlight and abrasion, the ratio of water based PU whit BaTiO3 is 2.5:1 due to the viscosity is more suitable for micro convergent tubes to production of luminous yarn, When adding an auxiliary line on lum…

本研究使用玻璃纖維布做為基材，以含浸的方式使聚碳酸酯附著於玻璃纖維布表面，製作成布膜結構，改變聚碳酸樹酯重量百分濃度(3%、6%、9%、12%、15%)，對透光率、反射率與霧度的影響。由實驗結果得知，樹脂濃度越高對玻璃纖維布的披覆性越好，但接觸角測試角度皆小於90°。

In the study, use glass fiber as base material made membrane structure and dipping Polycarbonate attachment with glass fiber surface. Change weight percentage concentration (3%, 6%, 9%, 12%, 15%), and influence transmittance, reflection and haze. The result of experience, the higher concentration of resin, better the coated glass fiber, but all of the contact angle are not greater than 90o.