第 23 卷第 4 期（2016）

依國家標準CNS 5611紡織品物理試驗法測試，在環境溫度(20+2)℃ 環境濕度(65+2)%RH下測驗，研究聚酯織物在不同顏色及濃度的染料下平衡的影響。不同顏色的染料會因其內部官能基的不同，而影響到染料對紅外線的吸收率，所以不同的染料會影響聚酯織物在平衡後阻熱溫差的大小值。另一方面，染料濃度的不同，其Lab的數值也會不同。從試驗中測得，染料濃度越高，其L值會相對下降(彩度下降)，也會使反射率降低、織物的吸光量增加，導致織物平衡後溫差值小；ab值也會對溫差造成影響，因染料顏色的不同會導致織物吸收紅外光量的多寡[3]，從而導致不同樣本的平衡溫度與空白溫度（35℃）相差值不同。

According to national standards CNS 5611 Textile physical test method test , at ambient temperature (20+2)℃ ambient humidity (65 + 2)% RH under test , study polyester fabric in different colors and balanced concentration of dye Impact. Dyes of different colors will be different because of its internal functional groups, and affect the absorption of infrared dyes, different dyes polyester fabric will affect the balance after the temperature difference of the size of the thermal resistance value. On the other hand, different dye concentration, the Lab values will be different. Measured from the…

環保議題的重視使得以生質材料為主的高分子研究開始積極的推廣，利用蓖麻等天然動植物所生產之聚醯胺可用於很多領域，當透過異形斷面成形方式，可使PA610紗線具有特殊的吸濕能力，並應用於織物上時，其特殊的水吸濕快乾之功能，可為織物創作出特殊的水份吸收與排放。當織物的兩面對於水份的作用能力不同時，若其中一面具有很高的吸水能力，而另一面具有很高的防水能力，此類型的纖維織物將可應用於避免濺污、避免污潰浸透弄髒服飾的表面，同時可在不需要通過化學處理也能具有多次高溫洗燙後保持原尺寸的穩定性，柔軟耐用並易於清理。

Research bio-base materials increased attention because of environmental issues. The use of castor plants produced polyamide can be used in many areas. Improve the absorption capacity utilization PA610 filament by profile spinning technology, can be given PA610 filament have moisture management function. The PA610 filament can have special absorbent capacity with profile. When applied to the fabric, its special features moisture management of water, for the creation of a special fabric moisture absorption and emission. When the two confront the role of water is not the same fabric, it can be …

通過三維機織布膜和尼龍濾布組件在相同操作條件下的對比實驗, 研究三維布膜材料在膜生物反應器裏的運行過濾特性。結果顯示三維機織布膜在0.015MPa的操作壓?下的清水通量?8.7×104 L/m2 h，在濁度實驗中也優於其他試樣。三維濾布的特殊結構有利於濾液中的小顆粒更容易被攔截，同時更利於液體通過。

This study is to investigate the wastewater treatment efficiency using 3D orthogonal woven fabrics as filtration media in Membrane Bioreactors (MBR) technology, in comparison with four high density 2D filter fabrics. The results demonstrated that the water flux of 3D woven fabric was maintained at 8.7×104 L/m2 h, which is the highest among all fabrics with the trans-membrane pressure at 0.015MPa. The final turbidity of 3D woven fabric was even better than the best performed 2D fabric. This is attributed to the unique multi-layered porous structure of the 3D fabrics, which could facilitate bet…

為解決服裝行業實時布匹質量檢測問題，本文提出了一種最優Gabor濾波器的設計方法。基於布料瑕疵的角度及紋理等獨特性質的分析，該方法利用DE算法優化Gabor濾波器??，從而獲得最佳的瑕疵特征提取。該方法利用?個最優Gabor濾波器代替一個覆蓋整個頻域的濾波器組，在保證較高的瑕疵檢測準確率的同時降低了系統的計算複雜度。基於真實布料樣本的離線實驗驗證了所提出的最優Gabor濾波器能有效地應用於瑕疵檢測。

This paper presents a novel design method for optimal Gabor filters for solving real time fabric inspection problem in fashion industry. In this paper, based on analysis of the features of fabric defects, the defect detection model utilizes DE to optimize the parameters of Gabor filters, which helps achieve the best feature extraction of defects. Using optimal Gabor filters instead of a Gabor filter bank, this method is able to obtain high efficiency, and reduce the total computational cost. The performance of the proposed method is evaluated through extensive experiments on real fabric samples.

採用懸浮聚合工藝製備聚甲基丙烯酸正丁酯（PBMA），以甲基丙烯酸β羥乙酯（HEMA）為物理交聯劑，二乙烯基苯（DVB）為化學交聯劑，N,N-二甲基乙醯胺（DMAc）為溶劑，製備紡絲溶液。採用溶液噴射法製備複合交聯結構PBMA纖維，研究了交聯劑含量及種類對纖維形貌和結構的影響，探討了PBMA纖維對柴油、機油與大豆油等油性有機物的吸附性能。結果表明，當熱空氣溫度為170℃，擠出速率為10ml/h，牽伸風壓為0.03MPa，抽吸風風量為2520m3/h時，所得纖維直徑均勻，形態良好。對不同油品的吸附性能測試結果表明，纖維對柴油、大豆油和機油的飽和吸附率分別為14g/g、10g/g和8g/g，且具有良好的拒水親油性。

Poly(butyl methacrylate) (PBMA) was synthesized by suspension polymerization. The spinning solution was prepared with hydroxyethyl methylacrylate(HEMA) as physical crosslinking agent, divinyl benzene(DVB) as chemical crosslinking agent and N, N - dimethyl acetamide as solvent. The PBMA fiber with composite crosslinking structure was made via solution blowing process and the influence of the crosslinking agent content on the fiber morphologies was discussed. The absorptive properties of the fiber to diesel oil, engine oil and soybean oil were also studied. The results showed that the fiber dia…

近來台灣民眾對二手商品需求漸增，因此遴選最具代表性的手手市集為研究主體，藉以瞭解會去該市集的消費者其生活型態和服裝偏好情形。以台灣「手手市集」消費者為研究對象，已知結論：﹙1﹚消費者對古著市集的認知為復古，對商品特色認知為具獨創與懷舊復古表現。﹙2﹚依生活型態可分為5個主要生活型態類群，分別在服裝偏好有顯著差異。﹙3﹚近七成消費者願意購買二手衣物，並接受其價格。﹙4﹚消費者對市集的滿意度皆為正面肯定。

Recently, Taiwan people's increasing their demand for second-hand goods, so the selection of the most representative of hand-hand fairs as a research subject in order to understand the market of consumers with their lifestyle and fashion preferences. Taiwan " hand-hand fairs " consumer studies, the conclusion: (1) Consumer perceptions of the vintage fairs are all focused on vintage key topic. (2) According to life style can be divided into 5 major lifestyle groups, respectively, there is significant difference in fashion preference. (3) 70% consumers are willing to buy second-hand clothes, an…

袋包產業在臺灣擁有數十年的產業發展史且品質響譽國際，精緻的製作工藝曾為臺灣賺取大筆的外匯，而做工細緻除了量產的製作環節需格外細心外，袋包開版的過程也極為重要，但開版技術需透過長期的經驗累積，樣版師的養成需耗費多年時間，而袋包人才培育方式早期採用學徒制，直至近年才有多所大學校院開設培養袋包設計與製作技術人才之相關科系，迄今臺灣與袋包開版相關之專業書籍與研究仍寥寥無幾；本研究目的旨在分析皮革袋包開版技術；首先，以文獻分析法瞭解臺灣袋包產業發展與現況、袋包種類概述；其次，以個別訪談探討袋包業界皮革袋包之專業術語、開版數據規格，以及開版重點等袋包專業知識，期盼本研究能提供對袋包設計與製作有興趣之學習者參考。

Bag industry in Taiwan has been not only a conventional industry for decades, but world-famous for the high quality. Taiwan obtained lots of foreign exchange from the superb crafts at the time. In addition to carefully manufacturing, bag-pattern making ability is also an important skill to an exquisite bag. However, educating a pattern maker needs many years to accumulate experiences. Even the high education of bags design and pattern making are just gradually established and thought highly in recent years. Those situations have caused little books written about bag-pattern making or few rela…

本研究主要將新型雙分子型界面活性劑作為分散劑，來探討對二氧化鈦奈米粉體粒子之分散性功能，實驗中使用非離子型及陰非離子型雙分子界面活性劑，主要目的是改善二氧化鈦粉體粒子易凝集的現象。由表面張力圖進而觀察到，分散劑皆具有降低表面張力能力，且著隨親水基鏈段增加而下降。利用紫外線-可見光吸收光譜儀觀察表面吸附分隨著濃度上升趨近於平穩，藉由動態光散射儀觀察二氧化鈦粒子於液體中的粒徑分佈曲線，隨著分散劑濃度增加，分佈範圍變窄且較無雙峰的趨勢產生，並以掃描式電子顯微鏡觀察二氧化鈦粒子於棉織物表面之粒子分散情形，由實驗得知添加分散劑的分散效果較未添加分散劑為佳，而添加陰非離子型分散劑，分散劑之電荷使懸浮液中粒子間之凝集力較小，所以分散性較非離子型分散劑優異。

In this study will be Gemini surfactant as a dispersing agent, to explore for dispersion of TiO2 nano powder particles function, experiments using non-ionic and female non-ionic bilayer surfactant, the main purpose is to improve the titania powder particles readily aggregation phenomena. Further surface tension is observed in FIG, dispersants are having the ability to reduce the surface tension, and a base with a hydrophilic segment increases. An ultraviolet - visible absorption spectroscopy was observed as the concentration of adsorbed fraction tends to rise steadily, by dynamic light scatte…

本研究在開發紡織烘乾過程中以烘乾製程最適化演算法來幫助傳統紡織產業，以解決烘乾過程中繁雜的參數設定，並能設定烘乾過程為達到節能或最省時間為目的。首先，依據田口實驗L_9 (3^4)之直交表推導出能耗、時間與烘乾之經驗式，織物以聚酯其規格為：142*108 75D/36f*75D/36f*60" DTY，於烘乾參數設定值為溫度160℃、排風量120CMM、內循環風量280CMM、布速40 m/min，其品質特性為能耗、時間、公定回潮率。其次，利用Simulink來做不同的烘乾參數模擬以驗證經驗式之正確性。由此建立聚酯織物於烘室之烘乾最適化演算法規劃，並作為日後不同織物之最適化演算法研究方向。

In this study, we develop the drying process optimizing algorithms of the fabric drying process to help traditional textile industry solve complex drying process parameter settings. In order to achieve the most energy-efficient or save time in drying process for the purpose. Firstly, derive the energy, time and setting of the empirical formula based on Taguchi method L_9 (3^4 ) orthogonal array. Polyester fabric with its specifications: 142 * 108 75D / 36f * 75D / 36f * 60" DTY), parameter setting is drying temperature 160℃, Exhaust volume 120CMM, circulating air volume 280CMM, fabric speed…

本研究是利用去氧核醣核酸(DNA)具有嵌入平面苯環化合物的特殊性質，由於易溶於水中而其應用範圍較受限制，研究使用環保且生物可分解性之材料，使DNA不會水溶，而非使用硝酸銅方法使DNA不水溶，DNA具有陰電性的磷酸基，與幾丁聚醣具有陽電性的胺基團形成靜電作用力，使得DNA不水溶，以DNA加入幾丁聚醣製成膜狀，放入鹽基性染料、反應性染料、酸性染料及分散性染料中測試吸附效果，實驗數據顯示加入DNA所製成之膜，其吸附效果比未加入幾丁聚醣之膜佳，在這四種染料中對於反應性染料其吸附速率最佳。實驗證明加入幾丁聚醣可以使DNA不水溶且可以增加吸附速率。

This research makes use of the study that the deoxyribonuncleic acid (DNA) has and can absorption the special property of the material. Because the DNA has water-soluble quality but also as a result the scope of to limit its application. Therefore, try to modify after using chitosan to cross-linking processing make the DNA insolubilized, instead of using the copper nitrate. The DNA has electronegative phosphate groups with chitosan has cationic amine groups to form electrostatic force, making the DNA insolubilized. The modified DNA-Chitosan film on the test of absorbing the result to the Basi…