第 24 卷第 3 期（2017）

本專題研究乃使用目前染整業用以染色打樣之甘油浴式高溫高壓染色機針對酸性染料染尼龍織物，染後的試布以 Datacolor 電腦測配色系統分光儀讀取K/S值來判斷其上色的效果，另分析Lab值來瞭解各試布色彩在色彩空間中的分佈，並進行比對。期盼得到較正確的上色結果，對染整工業有所助益。

To obtain the dyed Nylon fabrics which dyed with acid dyes, we utilized HT, HP – Rapid Dyeing Machine. The fabrics detected by Datacolor Color-match System (SF600 PLUS-CT) to have K/S values, then evaluated the effectiveness of dyeing. Then, we analyzed Lab values to realize the distribution of colors in the color space. We expect the results which we conclude are useful for dyeing industries.

本研究探討綠色系列之服飾意象並以20個綠色系列色彩搭配服飾影像樣本進?其色彩意象評估實驗。其結果顯示，可導讀出一組綠色服飾色彩意象尺度，共包括有黯淡-光明、美的-醜的、豪華-純樸三個意象尺度。另外，主色之色彩三屬性之明度、彩度、色相皆與三維意象尺度之DBG均分別有一致性。

In this study, the color imageries in of apparel images were estimated using twenty samples in green series. The experimental results show that a set of color-imagery scales containing Dark-Light (abbreviated as D), Beautiful-Ugly (abbreviated as B), and Gorgeous-Simple (abbreviated as G) may be derived for the green series of apparel images tested. In addition, there exists a good agreement for the three color attributes of the dominant color of a specific apparel image relative to those color-imagery scales D, B and G respectively.

本研究開發降低成本之保暖填充絨體，探討不同濃度海藻酸鈉之成型性，及不同濃度水性壓克力添加改善基材柔軟性，並以椰子油發泡劑使絨體基材具有多孔特性。由研究結果得知，在壓克力樹脂2wt%與海藻酸鈉3wt%時能有最好的成型性，纖維約有平均直徑0.4釐米，另外以不同水性壓克力樹脂濃度配比(2%、15%、35%、50%)進行蓬鬆度和熱傳導測試，其水性壓克力樹脂有最佳104.58蓬鬆性(in3/oz)，在水性壓克力樹脂15%時有最低之熱傳導率0.0761 (W/M.K)，且添加發泡劑後能使纖維具有多孔性孔隙率能到達53.47%。

In this study, the development to cost down of the artificial down, different Alginate concentration and aqueous acrylic that influence on forming and soft, the add Coconut oil foaming agent to change more porous. First, 2% aqueous acrylic and 3% Alginate Solution have best form that average diameter 0.4 mm. Another add different aqueous acrylic concentration(2%、15%、35%、50%) to do the bulkiness and heat conduction detect, that aqueous acrylic have best bulkiness 104.58 (in3/oz) and low heat conduction 0.0761(W/M*K) of 15% aqueous acrylic concentration. Finally add Coconut oil foaming agent ca…

本研究運用抗紫外線、吸濕排汗、竹炭保溫等功能性之紗線，設計製造防護型複合功能性針織護具，以提升針織物的附加價值。本研究先將抗紫外線紗、吸濕排汗紗進行紗線併股，接續將竹炭PET紗(芯紗) 和吸濕排汗/抗紫外線複合紗(包繞紗)，利用紡織專門之轉筒式加撚包繞機，製備出複合功能性包繞紗，並改變轉筒式加撚包繞機之轉筒速度以控制其撚數，變化包繞數之包繞紗。接續將複合功能性包繞紗(面紗)加入彈性紗(底紗)，運用全電腦自動縫合提花織襪機，進行圓編織造加工，探討在不同包繞數變化下，對於針織物之透氣度、遠紅外線、負離子、紫外線測試評估，最後製備出複合功能性針織物與護具。本研究織物測試結果在透氣度的方面，在包繞數3 turns/cm時有最佳的透氣度44.46 cm3/s/cm2，隨著包繞紗的撚度增加其遠紅外線放射率效果均達0.8?以上，在包繞數5 turns/cm有較佳數值0.81?，負離子測試在包繞數3 turns/cm時有較佳數值496 cou…

The yarns with anti-UV, moisture absorbing, and thermal regulating functions are applied in the research to design and produce functional complex protective knitted gear to increase the added value of knitwear. First of all, the anti-UV yarn and the thermo-regulating yarn were piled into one. Next, the fabric-use rotor twister was applied to make functional complex wrapped-yarn using the anti-UV/thermos- regulating yarn (wrapped-yarn) and the bamboo charcoal PET yarn (core yarn). The twisting speed of the rotor twister was changed to control the twisting number of the wrapped yarn. Next, elas…

流行趨勢變化與版型的走向有絕對的相關聯性，本研究主要以台灣區各女性內衣品牌的集中托高型內衣及一般型內衣做為分析比對的樣本，依照內衣結構組合項目進行尺寸測量共計20個項目，以測量的數據分別計算出平均值及標準差，通過平均值與標準差的數據探討內衣各部位版型的變化。研究結果顯示：市售的集中托高型內衣的尺寸與一般型內衣的尺寸差異最大的是集中托高型內衣的背?處寬度增加45%、後背帶長增加44%、肩耳寬度增加33%、罩杯型版裁片數量增加31%、脅邊高增加22%，剩餘部位的尺寸除了前中心寬減少55%及前中心高減少12%以外，其它尺寸距則都增加1%~9%之間。以上數據可提供內衣生產廠商於採購原料時的參考依據。

The fashion change is absolute related to the trend of the pattern. This research is to compare and analyze the samples of the push up underwear and the general underwear of Taiwan’s local brands. Measured 20 items of the dimensions of underwear and calculate the average and standard deviation, through these data to study the changes of every patterns of the underwear. The results show that the most difference between them are for the push up underwear of the dimension of Hook & eye increased 45%, Back strap increased 44% ,Strap increased 33%, Side seam increased 22% and the number of the pa…

本研究製備聚(乳/甘醇)酸共聚物(PLGA)及幾丁質(chitin)微纖維，導入分解酵素(chitinase)並結合多醣體材料進行複合，設計開發製作成生物分解性複合纖維海棉敷材，以提升深層慢性傷口癒合之效能。結果顯示，所開發的生物分解性敷材具有仿真皮層組織結構，不同於市售膠原蛋白產品(BIOSTEP?/Smith & Nephew)多孔性海綿結構，能配合組織修復時程提供適當生物分解時程1~3個月與組織生長環境 ; 敷料使用不需再移除及更換，可解決膠原蛋白產品其分解速率過快，約1周需再填補之缺點，增加使用時之便利性。

We developed a biodegradable wound dressing that combined PLGA/chitin microfiber/chitinase into polysaccharide matrix and design made into fiber-forming foam dressing, in order to improve the wound healing performance for the deep chronic wounds. The results show that the biodegradable dressing with a simulation structure of the skin layer were different from the commercially available collagen (BIOSTEP?/Smith & Nephew) porous sponge structure, which can provided appropriate biodegradable time of one to three months and environment to match tissue repair process. In addition, the wound dressi…

本研究針對高含量彈性纖維之尼龍織物染色時，於使用寶藍色豔色系的酸性染料染色後，加入不同種均染劑不固色處理，並使用Datacolor分光儀分析布面色光變異，另觀察均染劑對單一彈性纖維於染色後的影響，次評估高含量彈性纖維尼龍織物於不同種助劑之下的最佳染色條件。酸性染料使用不同濃度染高含量彈性纖維尼龍時，在1%、3%染色後之布面色花問題最為嚴重，反而是較中間濃度染色時較為穩定，均染劑則是陽離子均染劑在酸性染料染色不同的濃度下，均染效果都比其他兩種類型來的較佳且布面色光也與不加均染劑較為接近。

This research is regarding dyeing the nylon fabric, which is highly composed of elastic fibers. After using acid dyes of sapphire blue color, and not fixing process by different leveling agent, analyze the variability of shade on fabric by Datacolor spectrometer. At the same time, the im-pact of observed how the other leveling agent influences the elastic fibers after dyeing. Next, evaluate optimal dyeing conditions, how nylon fabric with high content elastic fiber work by different kinds of aids. When dyeing high content of elastic fiber nylon fabric by different con-centration of acid dye,…

利用靜電紡絲法，以流量1 m L/hr、紡絲距離120 mm、電壓20 Kv、滾筒轉速30 rpm為固定條件，將尼龍6/多元醇 (PA6/POLYOL)溶液噴紡於PP熔噴不織布上，製備出適用於防PM2.5之複合過濾基材。本實驗將不同鏈長的多元醇(polyol)及其濃度(5 wt%、10 wt%)添加於尼龍6紡絲液中，探討所製電紡絲膜與PP熔噴不織布複合後與對PM2.5過濾效率之影響。本實驗以SEM分析濾材之表面結構，並以PM2.5測試儀器測試過濾效率、壓損，結果顯示添加多元醇10%之樣品，其過濾效率及壓損有明顯的上升，而只添加5%則沒有太大的變化，而對照SEM的圖片發先，添加多元醇10%之樣品能使電紡絲膜產生較多的液珠結構，且纖維明顯更細小時，更能使複合濾材的過濾效率增加。

PA 6/ polyol solutions were electrospun onto PP meltbrown nonwovens which have been put onto the collected cylinder smoothly. Using 1 ml/hr feed rate, 120 mm spinning distance, 20 kV voltage, 30rpm winding speed as the parameter of electrospinning process. The influence of filtration efficiency for PM2.5 was by adding different chain lengths and concentrations (5wt%、) of polyol. The filtration efficiency was tested by PM2.5 Instrument, the morphologies were by SEM. The result showed that 10wt% polyol were offered the highest filtration efficiency, but the samples of polyol 5% have no consider…

熱蒸氣在烘乾定型機烘室內運轉及流動，會因烘室內之直角幾何空間，以及熱風不易流動而距離織物較遠的流場，形成無效用的空間，因此可藉由這些無效空間的遮蔽及機構設計的改善，進行優化流場的推演與模式建立，此部分是先建立溫度流場、循環風對流場以及烘室的濕度流場基礎資料及分析模型，再搭配經驗法則逐步使被烘物件受熱精準化。而烘室內無效空間的選擇及遮蔽，建置烘室3D模型及打樣，使用ANSYS Fluent分析軟體，利用CFD電腦輔助模擬技術，針對烘室氣流的溫度場、速度場以顯影方式來分析氣流速度、溫度差等指標，來形成高效率烘室節能技術。

The operation and flow of the hot vapor in the drying chamber of the molding machine can be caused by the geometrical space of the right angle in the drying chamber and the flow field which is far away from the fabric by the hot air. Therefore, the shielding and mechanism of these void spaces The design of the improvement of the optimization of the flow field of the deduction and the establishment of this part is the first part of the establishment of the temperature flow field, circulating air convection field and the drying chamber humidity field basic data and analysis models, and then wit…

傳統不織布已廣泛應用於過濾材領域。面對日益嚴重的空氣或液體汙染問題，現有不織布為提高過濾效率，常會造成高空氣阻力的缺點。奈米纖維具有奈米尺度、高比表面積及高孔隙率，已被廣泛應用於過濾材。利用奈米纖維與PET濕式不織布複合，可以增進濕式不織布空氣過濾材的過濾性能，提高空氣過濾效率及降低空氣阻力。靜電紡絲是一製備奈米纖維的最直接有效的方法。本文以靜電紡絲PAN奈米纖維與PET濕式不織布複合，研究對空氣過濾性能的影響。結果顯示，以PAN奈米纖維1.21 g/m2複合PET濕式不織布，其壓損為9.8 mm H2O，空氣過濾效率由6.8%提升至99.2 %(32 LPM，0.3μm particle)，可獲得最佳過濾性能，其過濾性能品質因子達0.47，為PET濕式不織布的四倍。因此，以PAN奈米纖維在低基重小於1.5 g/m2的複合即可有效提升空氣過濾材的過濾性能。

Traditional non-woven filter material has been widely used in the filtration field. Faced with an increasingly serious air or liquid pollution problems, To improve the existing non-woven filtration efficiency, often resulting in disadvantages of high air resistance. Nanofibers have nanometer scale, high specific surface area and high porosity, it has been widely used in filter material. The use of nanofibers laminated with PET wet lay non-woven, can improve the performance of the wet lay non-woven air filtration materials, improving air filtration efficiency and reduce air resistance. Electro…