第 24 卷第 2 期（2017）

隨著時代的演進，人們對於環境保護及追求自然永續的生活品質已逐漸重視，在服裝印染上，天然染色亦視為最環保之做法，而傳統藍靛在工藝染料中最具代表性，其色澤天然，深具人文特色氣息。台灣因土質及氣候條件適宜藍草植物的生長，在荷蘭統治時期即有栽植的紀錄，於十九世紀中葉「藍」曾遍植台灣，並於台灣各地創立染坊，所染之「烏布」、「青布」品質優良而聲名遠播。近年來台灣在一片重視文化資產與回歸傳統生命源頭的呼聲下， 促使傳統藍染工藝與技藝漸漸復甦及發展。傳統藍染文化存在於世界各地，應是全球共同一起維護的傳統技藝，因此，本研究藉由藍染文化背景分析與探討，運用蠟染工藝的技法與文化創意、時尚元素相互結合轉化，擷取藍染布料之美轉化應用於服裝設計上，整體之概念構想、發展過程及創作成果，希望能作為一個突顯藍染文化設計的引子，共同結合現代設計的靈感，並將其文化價值和藝術風格融合於流行時尚與設計中。

As time went by, people now value environment protection and seek a more natural, sustainable life. The natural dyeing for the most environmentally friendly way in apparel fabrics. Traditional indigo dyeing is the most representative among all other dyeing techniques. The color is natural and has cultural characteristics. Due to the quality of the soil in Taiwan and the fact that the weather condition is suitable for growing indigo plants, the record of planting indigo plants in Taiwan was first seen during the Dutch Formosa period. In mid-19th century, the plants were seen all over Taiwan an…

國際上研究發展許多紡織品吸濕發熱檢測相關標準，包括國際標準ISO 16533、中國大陸GB/T29866、日本BOKEN公司標準及台灣FTTS-FA-023產業標準，但來自不同原料、變化濕度、測試設備以及實驗條件會影響材料吸濕發熱的溫差變化。因此本研究包括兩組熱傳感應器，一組放置試樣，一組為空白比對，並將其放入可控制恆溫恆濕儀器中，設定20℃及35℃兩種條件下，配合起始濕度10%RH及40%RH增至90%RH，及測量不同層數、吸濕發熱功率、速率及阻熱溫差之變化。

Many testing methods for this technology for measured the generated heat of textiles during humidity change has been developing in the international standard in ISO/DIS1653, GB/T29866 of Mainland China, BOKEN method of Japan, FTTS-FA-023 of Taiwan. All materials generate heat when absorbing moisture and absorb heat when releasing moisture. The heat of absorption varies according to materials, humidity, testing apparatus and conditions. In this testing apparatus has two sensors, one for control another one applied to one side of surface for all kinds of sheet shape textile materials is placed …

本研究利用海藻酸鈉與氯化鈣固化交聯理論，製成改質DNA / 海藻酸鈣薄膜，改善DNA易水溶的性質，3%海藻酸鈉8g加0.5g DNA粉末，使用電磁攪拌器70℃、150rpm，攪拌一個半小時成混合膠體，分別使用常溫、冷凍及微波發泡三種不同乾燥方法，乾燥後浸泡5% 氯化鈣交聯薄膜，常溫乾燥製成一般薄膜，冷凍乾燥製成有孔洞類似海綿狀膜，微波發泡製成有孔洞但是乾扁易脆的薄膜，三種乾燥方法製成不同型態的膜。吸附 Reactive Blue 198染料，前60分鐘常溫乾燥吸附12.13 %，冷凍乾燥吸附34.05 %；120分鐘後常溫乾燥吸附19.27 %，冷凍乾燥吸附37.09 %；180分鐘後常溫乾燥吸附22.08 %，冷凍乾燥吸附41.46 %。同時間冷凍乾燥較常溫乾燥吸附多2倍量的染料，證明增加表面積可以加快吸附時間，增加吸附率。

In this study, using sodium alginate and calcium chloride cross-linking, made of modified DNA / sodium alginate film, improve the water solubility properties of DNA, 3% sodium alginate 8g plus 0.5g DNA powder, using an electromagnetic stirrer in 70 ℃, 150 rpm, stirred for a half hour to become a mixed colloid, respectively three different drying methods of ordinary temperature, freezing and microwave foam made of film. After drying, the cured film using a 5% calcium chloride, drying at room temperature is generally made of a thin film, freeze-dried prepare like a sponge-like holes in the fil…

本研究探討防燃劑與聚氨酯樹脂之含量與經緯向密度不同對聚酯長纖織物防燃性之研究，本實驗使用防燃劑濃度0%、4%、6%、8%、10%，樹脂濃度0%、1%、2%、3%、4%及壓吸壓力1kg/cm2。經密每英吋176根，緯密每英吋96根，研究密度不同對熱量傳遞的影響，使經向布上聚氨酯含量0%到6.56%，防燃劑含量0%到15.79%時，經燃燒試驗後，經向炭化長度由9.3cm降低到4.8cm，緯向炭化長度由9.7cm降低到5.0cm。並取燃燒效果最好的聚氨酯濃度1%、防燃劑濃度10%的試片進行耐日光測試，經紫外光照射60小時後，經向炭化長度由4.8cm增長到8.0cm，緯向炭化長度由5.0cm增長到9.7cm，測量基材上劑後的防燃性能差異，符合CNS10285 A4法標準。

In this study, the research about the Contents of flame and Polyurethane Resin adjusted the retardants of polyester filament fabrics. In this experiment, the flame retardants concentration studied 0%, 4%, 6%, 8% and 10%.Resins used the percentage concentration of 0,1 2, 3and 4; the pressure was 1kg/cm?. The rest resulted an increase in the contents of the flame retardants polyester filament fabric, reducing the length of the carbonization. With the improvement of the waterborne polyurethane, carbonized increased. The contents of flame retardants and polyurethane changed after measuring the le…

本研究利用雙螺桿押出機押出聚醯胺(Polyamide)薄膜，並進行雙軸延伸，研究薄膜熱性質與氧氣穿透率。首先使用示差掃描量熱儀(DSC)進行熱性質分析，並比較線性及非線性尼龍(MXD6)之性質差異。再來分析雙軸延伸尼龍薄膜之性質，包括光學性能和氧氣穿透率，以及探討薄膜之延伸與尼龍種類之間的關係。

In this study, polyamide (PA) film was casted by twin screw extruder and followed by bi-axially stretching. In the first part, the thermal properties were analyzed by measuring the heat flow in the adiabatic process by using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). In the second part, the properties of BOPA film were analyzed including optical properties and oxygen transmission rate (OTR), and the relationship among the stretching process and the grades of Nylon.

本技術結合熔噴與靜電紡絲製程技術，開發微奈米纖維為主體的高濾效低壓損過濾器，其特徵具有高比表面積的特性，同時提供高通量、低壓損，增加纖維對粒子攔截、慣性衝擊、擴散的機率，以提高對氣膠微粒之去除效率，所製備之精密過濾材之濾效率為99.97％壓損僅有3.8mmH20，濾材容塵量高達112.6 g/m2 ，並結合複合不織布工程及產品設計與開發工程之能量，生產高效能微奈米纖維過濾器，使其成為具有輕薄、高濾效、低壓損、省能耗等特性之高效率HEPA空氣濾網。

This technology integrated with the meltblown and electrospun process technology, developed a filter which high filtration efficiency and low pressure drop. This main fiber diameter distribution has one scale in micrometer and another in nanometer. Then combined with the nonwoven composite engineering and product design and development engineering to manufacture a “high-performance micro-/ nano-fiber filter”. The best filtration efficiency performance we observed was 99.97% and only3.8 mm H20 pressure drop under a standard operation test. Besides, compared to traditional micron fiber membrane…

我國紡織染整業之環境中，隨處可見使用化工染料進行染色，由於化工染料染色後之成效，能給予服飾繽紛色彩與便利的同時，但相對易影響環境污染與廢水處理之問題產生。現今在全球綠色環保與環保意識的抬頭之下，如何提升清晰淨化的環境以及注重消費者身體健康等等因素。因而天然中藥色素應用於纖維染色性之研究又再度引起關注。本研究以天然中藥色素應用中，依色素化學屬類分為九大類染料，進而萃取出其天然色素，再針對蠶絲纖維經不同媒染劑處理後，分別檢測著色程度、耐洗色堅牢度及耐摩擦色堅牢度之變化情形。研究結果得知：1.依色素化學屬類分為九大類染料中，中藥染材萃取染料染著蠶絲纖維經不同媒染劑處理後的色相變化，皆能染出各種色相。2. 耐洗色堅牢度方面：以硫酸亞鐵作為媒染劑時，耐洗色堅牢度皆維在3-4級以上；以硫酸鋁處理時，其耐洗色堅牢度皆維在3-4級以上；若以硫酸銅作為媒染劑時，耐洗色堅牢度皆維在3-4級以上。3. 耐摩擦色堅牢度方面：以硫酸亞鐵作為媒染劑時，耐…

Regarding domestic textile dyeing and finishing industry, inorganic pigments are commonly used in dyeing silk fabric due to its powerful coloring effect. However, at the same time of giving clothe its colorful and brilliant hues, inorganic pigments also cause problems like environmental pollution and wastewater production. In today’s world where public awareness towards environmental protection is on the rise, issues like environmental protection and customer health should also be fully concentrated on. Therefore, Chinese medicine pigment’s function in dyeing silk fabric has once again receiv…

本研究以改變涼爽礦石粉末/奈米鋁化合物比例加入不同高分子聚合體(Nylon、PAN、PET)溶液中均勻分散，以靜電紡絲法製備奈米涼感纖維膜，觀察改變涼爽礦石粉末/奈米鋁化合物比例對涼感的影響，並經由電子顯微鏡觀察表面與纖維細度。由研究中觀察，改變涼爽礦石粉末/奈米鋁化合物比例會使黏度上升，纖維細度變大，細度範圍在0.18-0.68μm之間。當鋁化合物佔添加的總比例越多瞬間涼感值越佳，Nylon的奈米涼爽纖維膜在涼爽礦石粉末/奈米鋁化合物添加比例0/3的情況下，瞬間涼感值可達0.164 W/cm2，其瞬間涼感值較同比例下的PAN、PET效果優異。

In this study,various ratio of nano cooling powder/nano-aluminum compound were added into polymers (polyacrylonitrile(PAN),polyamide(Nylon) and Polyester(PET)) prepared cool nano-fiber membrane by electrospinning method,The viscosity of spinning solutions and cool feeling values(Q-max) of nano-fiber membrane were researched. From experimental results found the viscosity increased with the increase of ratio nano-aluminum compound. In addition, a scanning electron microscopy will be used to observed fineness in the fiber. This research discovers that increasing of the proportion of nano-aluminu…

本研究合成了三支分散染料，染料A至染料C的產率均高於85%，將電子基團導入單偶氮染料的對位引起較大的紅移效應，因此染料顏色從橙色變為紫色。合成的三支染料於超臨界二氧化碳中對聚酯纖維進行染色，染色布並以耐水洗、耐水、耐汗和耐摩擦牢度等國際標準進行堅牢度評估。研究發現，在超臨界二氧化碳染色中，染料A第一次染色具有超過87％的染料相對上色率，染料A適用於聚酯織物的超臨界二氧化碳染色。色牢度評估結果顯示，染色樣品的耐水洗、耐水、耐汗和耐摩擦牢度性能都符合商業要求，但染色樣品的乾摩擦牢度性能低於商業要求。

In this research we have synthesis three disperse dyes and showed that the yield of Dye A to Dye C was obtained above 85%. Introduction of the withdrawing group to the para-position of monoazo dyes results in a larger bathochromic shifts; as a result of these shifts, the colour is changed from orange to violet. All dyes were dyed on polyester fiber in supercritical carbon dioxide and stand on international organization for standardization for colorfastness to laundering, colorfastness to water, colorfastness to perspiration and rubbing fastness. The study found that in supercritical carbon di…

本研究在實驗上使用點30穿甲彈對氧化鋁搭配Dyneema及Goldflex纖維組成之陶瓷複合材料進行抗彈性能評估，並以數值模擬分析，比照實驗結果建立模擬破壞的真實性；陶瓷與纖維具備不同的抗彈特性，陶瓷功能為磨耗投射體並降低其衝擊動能，纖維則是支撐陶瓷並以其拉伸強度吸收彈頭的殘餘動能。彈道測試結果顯示兩者纖維作為背板材料時吸收能量相近，但以變形量而論，Dyneema變形量大於Goldflex，且以Dyneema為背板材料時，陶瓷及纖維板有明顯的脫層現象。

The ballistic resistance capability of composite consisting of ceramics (Al2O3) with two kinds of fiber backplate (Goldflex & Dyneema) shot by 0.30 AP bullet was investigated in this project. Ballistic resistance mechanism of ceramics and fiber are different. The front plate of high-hardness ceramic is used to passivate the bullet and limit the bullet’s capacity to puncture in the first. Second, when the bullet hits the metal or high-tensile backing, the backing undergoes plastic deformation and absorbs the bullet’s residual energy. Results of ballistic test showed that the energy absorption …