華岡紡織期刊 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile
ISSN
1025-9678
發行 Publisher
中華民國紡織工程學會
卷 Vol.期 No.273

第 27 卷第 3 期(2020)

Vol. 27 No. 3 (2020)

出版日期 2020-08-03

研究論文Original Research Articles
  1. 137
    針縫複合氯丁橡膠與PP內裡布之物性研究 Study on the Physical Properties of Needle Stitched Neoprene and PP Liner
    陳敬柏、高榮美
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    研究針對爆汗褲中無吸濕效果之氯丁橡膠,以無線針縫方法複合PP裡布,並比較分析針縫後物性之保水試驗、蕊吸高度、阻熱能力、透氣性、耐磨性等物性實驗。由實驗數據得知,經過針縫後織物的含水從279%增加到353%,而以針縫三次橫直橫方向,在針縫間距0.5公分時,在20分鐘蕊吸高度達3cm。針縫間距0.5公分平均阻熱溫度最大為6.2?C。

    Study needle stitching method on the non-hygroscopic effect of neoprene sweatpants with PP inter lining stitching without seam, and analyze the physical property of water retention , core absorption height, heat resistance, breathability, abrasion resistance tests of after stitching. According to the experimental data, the water content of the fabric increased from 279% to 353% after the needle stitching. When the needle stitch spacing was 0.5 cm and stitching in a horizontal and vertical direction carried out three times, the absorption height reached 3 cm in 20 minutes. The heat resistance…

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    pp. 137-142 全文 PDF
  2. 143
    西拉雅平埔族十字花繡工藝特徵之研究 Handicrafts Traits of Siraya Pingpu Tribes’ Embroidery
    張瑛玲
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    鑑於目前國內對西拉雅平埔族刺繡工藝,鮮少有相關的論文專述或研究資料,相關書籍大多數偏於文史資料之研究,在缺乏刺繡技術與紋飾配色之分析紀錄,以及繡品保存不易下,導致失傳。在沒有文字紀錄以及對於傳統已經陌生的族群後裔,透過文物物件的紋飾研究,有助於建立傳統文化的脈絡與演變。本研究以葫蘆墩文化中心館藏的20件繡品,在有限的文獻和物質文化研究下,透過館藏繡品紋樣的分析與刺繡技藝與色彩紋樣的系列分析,完整記錄了當年使用的繡樣、圖紋與色彩透過有限的文獻和物質文化研究下,分析館藏繡品紋樣的分析與刺繡技藝與色彩紋樣的系列分析,完整記錄了當年使用的繡樣、圖紋與色彩。

    In view of the current domestic embroidery process for Siraya pingpu, There are very few related articles or research data, Most of the related books are research on literature and history data, in the absence of embroidery technology and decorative color analysis of the record, as well as the preservation of embroidery is not easy, resulting in lost. In the absence of written records and the traditional and unfamiliar ethnic descendants, through the object of cultural relics research, help to establish the traditional culture of the context and evolution. This research takes the Taichung Cul…

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    pp. 143-150 全文 PDF
  3. 151
    不同成分及夾層之聚酯不織布在不同條件下之阻熱研究 The Thermal Insulation of Polyester Nonwoven Fabrics in Different Conditions
    何治?、吳弘熠、余瑤楠、邢雅嵐、邢文灝
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    本研究在溫度10℃、相對溼度65%的環境下,測試不同成分及夾層之聚酯不織布,在不同條件下之阻熱效果。聚酯纖維的種類分為遠紅外線聚酯、三維捲曲中空聚酯與低熔點聚酯;夾層有鍍鋁薄膜、玻纖織物與碳纖織物。條件的變化為針軋速率、混紡比、疊層數量、熱壓定型、加熱燈溫度及夾層結合。本研究中,以4層無針軋結合熱壓定型鍍鋁薄膜聚酯不織布的阻熱溫度最高,達39.17℃。

    In the condition of 10℃ and 65%RH, changing the type of polyester and interlayer will have an effect on the thermal insulation. In this test we used 3 kinds of polyester, including far infrared polyester, 3D crimp hollow polyester and low-melting polyester fiber. There are 3 kinds of interlayers, including aluminized film, glass fabric and carbon fabric. In addition, we adjusted the speed of needle punching , blending proportion, layer quantity, heat setting, temperature of heating lamp, and interlayer combining. Application of various types of polyester nonwoven fabrics indicated that sample…

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    pp. 151-157 全文 PDF
  4. 158
    複合電紡絲不織布對不同粒徑油性氣膠過濾之分析 Analysis of Filtering of Different Particle Size Oily Gases by Composite Electrospun Nonwovens
    曾碩祺、邱柏升、楊易真、潘毅鈞
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    靜電紡絲近年來不管是在學術界與產業界都有著各方面的研究,尤其在空氣過濾方面更能顯示其優勢其對PM2.5以下的微粒過濾效果特別明顯。有鑑於以往文獻中有關空氣過濾材的測試方法發現,大部分的實驗方式都以鹽霧微粒子用來作為過濾效果測試的氣膠種類,但實際上霧霾中危害人體健康的最大元兇是液態的油性氣膠(aerosol)微粒,卻少有文獻資料以液態氣膠作為過濾微粒來討論濾材的油霧過濾效果。因此,本研究主要以提升液態氣膠過濾效果並降低材料壓差為研究目標,以熱塑性聚氨酯(TPU)與聚醯胺(PA 6)為原料,再加入具有親油性的多元醇非離子界面活性劑,以靜電紡絲方式噴覆在熔噴不織布上複合製成仿口罩結構之複合不織布,探討改變原料比例以及處理條件的不同,對不同粒徑油性氣膠微粒過濾效率與壓差之影響做一深入研究。

    Over past few years, there were numerous studies on Electrospinning Technique that have been carried in academia and industrial field. As in the aspect of air filtration, Electrospinning Technique are able to show its filtration advantages especially on the filtration effectiveness of particulate size less than PM2.5. According to the previous test methods for air filter materials in literatures, most of the experiment methods were based on using salt spray particles as a type of aerosol for filtration test. In fact, the biggest culprit that threatening human health in haze is liquid oily rub…

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    pp. 158-163 全文 PDF
  5. 164
    布花圖案設計之研究 Study of Cloth Pattern Design
    李語靖、林均樺、袁汾、袁泠
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    少量多樣一直是數位印花的最大特色。在標榜個性化的時代,印製專屬個人的紡織商品已不再遙不可及,可利用四方連續布花圖案設計或是單一印花圖稿做各種創作。本研究即是以四方連續技法設計原民風、自然生活風之布花圖案,利用單一印花圖稿設計T恤圖案,讓圖案設計也成為服飾商品創作的一部分,讓作品更進步。

    Small quantity with many variety has always been the biggest feature of digital printing. In the era of individuality, the printing of exclusive individual textile products is no longer out of reach, and can be created by four-way continuous flower pattern design or single printed artwork. This research is to design the original folk style and natural life style of the cloth pattern with the four-way continuous technique. The design of the T-shirt pattern is made by using a single printed artwork, so that the pattern design becomes a part of the creation of the clothing product.

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    pp. 164-169 摘要
  6. 170
    《佳麗》—運用唐代服飾於袋包創作之表現 A Case Study of Using Tang Dynasty Costume in Bag Design
    林千郁、范靜媛
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    唐朝,共歷二十一帝,享國二百八十九年,是公認的中國最強盛的時代之一。在這樣國家強盛、衣食豐足的年代,國家的人民能有閒情去在意自已的外表穿著,尤其是女性,本主題就以唐代女性服飾作為研究,研究方法一為「文獻分析法」,研究者進行以佳麗為主題之袋包設計,創作三件系列袋包作品,分別為手提包、工底包、側背包,將唐代後宮佳麗的元素融入袋包設計,希望能將服飾的概念與袋包做結合,在色彩上採用多種顏色做搭配,並以金色五金使作品呈現華美感,以組合的方式呈現在包款作品上,讓服裝不能是服裝,還能有不同的樣貌。

    The Tang Dynasty, a total of twenty-one emperors, and the country 289 years, is recognized as one of the most powerful eras in China. In such a country where the country is strong and the food and clothing are abundant, the people of the country can have their own leisure to care about their own appearance, especially women. The theme is to study women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty. The research method is “document analysis”. The design of the bag with beauty as the theme, creating three series of bags, handbag, bottom bag, side bag, the elements of the Tang Dynasty harem beauty into the bag…

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    pp. 170-177 全文 PDF
  7. 177
    植物天然色素染色可行性之研究-以薯榔為例 The Feasibility of Dyeing with Natural Colorants of Plants- in the Case of Dioscorea Rhipogonioides Oliv
    ?祖瑜、郭文貴、林尚明、吳翊綾、王柏蓉
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    本實驗以薯榔為天然色素之材料,探討不同因素(溶劑、溫度、時間)對薯榔天然色素的影響,也探討不同因素(溶劑、溫度、時間)對薯榔為天然染料染棉織物之上色程度之分析。透過紫外線/可見光分光光譜儀來分析色素的主吸收波長與吸收光值多寡,透過K/S值來分析棉織物之上色程度。結果得出,萃取薯榔色素時,溫度越高,時間越長,萃出色素越多,也就是吸收光值越高,不過主吸收波長變化不大。染浴濃度越高,UV-Vis光譜中吸收光值越高。染浴pH值在12時,染棉織物之上色程度,比染浴原pH值時,染棉織物之上色程度好。在耐摩擦堅牢度中,乾摩擦牢度比濕摩擦勞度好。在耐水洗堅牢度中,對棉織物的污染最大。

    In this experiment, the effect of different factors on the natural pigment of Dioscorea rhipogonioides Oliv was discussed by using Dioscorea rhipogonioides Oliv as a natural pigment material. The analysis of the degree of coloring of Dioscorea rhipogonioides Oliv as a natural dyed cotton fabric was also discussed. The color and color of the pigment were analyzed by an ultraviolet/visible spectrometer, and the degree of coloration of the cotton weave was analyzed by the K/S value. The results show that when extracting Dioscorea Rhipogonioides Oliv pigment, the higher the temperature, the longe…

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    pp. 177-182 全文 PDF
  8. 183
    天然藍染幼童服裝色彩表現及抗菌性研究 The Research of Natural Indigo Dyes on Color Performance and Antibacterial Properties on Toddler Clothing
    Jia-Zhen Hou<sup>1</sup>, Pei-Chen Hsiao<sup>2</sup>, Chao-Tsang Lu<sup>3</sup>, Wei Yin, Yu-Tien Huang<sup>1</sup>, Chin-Mei Lin<sup>1, 4</sup>
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    在全球一片重視環保的影響下,台灣於近年亦開始追求環保健康的永續發展,且在文化創意的興盛及對傳統文化產業的復興下,傳統藍染文化因而再度受到大家的重視,天然的藍染呼應了現在人們對於健康的意識,且自然的原料能夠被地球所分解破壞,與環保的概念不謀而合。近年幼童的皮膚過敏比率逐漸攀升,因此與皮膚接觸的衣物是否有刺激性則相對重要,而衣物刺激性來源可分為布料材質是否天然及其染劑有無化學添加物,研究顯示天然藍染布料有抗菌等防護之功效,故本研究將以藍染服飾的抗菌測試效果為主軸,以天然藍靛、棉纖維布料為實驗材料,運用垂吊染色法,透過不同的染色次數,進行色彩差異比較分析與抗菌性測試,最後選出最佳抗菌效果的藍染布,接續進行幼童服飾設計應用,以提供藍染文化更加多元的發展,期望做為開發藍染市場以及開拓文化深度的研究案例。傳統文化產業的復甦,不僅乘載著前人的智慧,也令現代人開始思考其產業更多元的發展,藍染形式的布料應用於服裝、家飾用品上,不僅製程不傷害環境…

    In recent years, under the globally rising influence of environmental awareness, Taiwan has started to pursue the sustainable development of environmental friendliness and protection; in particular in the revival of its traditional industry and under the prosperity of cultural inspiration, traditional indigo dyeing is valued once again in Taiwan. Considering natural ingredients can be decomposed by the earth; the natural indigo dyeing has corresponded to the notion of people wanting to be healthy and also to the idea of eco- friendliness. Recent findings have indicated a rise in the rate of s…

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    pp. 183-189 全文 PDF
  9. 190
    再生聚酯纖維之專利及工業產品分析研究 Patent and Industrial Products Analyses Study on the Recycled Polyester Fibers
    章慈軒、陳省三、喬昭華
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    聚酯纖維為最廣泛使用的紡織合成纖維,來源為對苯二甲酸 (Para-Terephthalic Acid)及乙二醇(Ethylene Glycol)聚合而成的線狀高分子 (Polyethylene Terephthalate,簡稱PET) ,每年全球PET產量超過6,000 萬噸,紡織為主要用途,其次為寶特瓶等民生必需品,而PET回收亦是再生環保紡織品的重要原料。本研究利用 DI專利資料庫搜索,透過不同分類方法如合作專利分類號、國際專利分類號,進行專利檢索,以及DWPI Manual Code分析再生聚酯技術在應用面、技術面、產品面之發展趨勢。 分析結果觀察PET回收生產技術被DuPont (杜邦) 公司、Eastman (伊士曼) 公司等企業所掌握,而不同分類方法亦可以觀察出專利權人之市場優勢,或潛在布局之經營策略。寶特瓶回收技術發展在歐美各國早已是深入布局發展,而在台灣方面有遠東新世紀、力寶隆等公司專精於PET的回收技術,…

    Polyester fiber is one of the most synthetic fibers worldwide. It is derived from Para-Terephthalic Acid and Ethylene Glycol (Polyethylene Terephthalate, PET for short). PET production capacity is over 60 million tons, which is used for textile and plastic bottles etc. Recycled PET is also an important material for eco-friendly fibers. This study analyzed the development trend of recycled polyester in terms of application, technology and product by searching Derwent World Patents Index (DWPI) database through different classification methods such as Cooperative Patent Classification, Interna…

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    pp. 190-195 全文 PDF
  10. 196
    TPLA/牡蠣殼粉複合塑料成膜性的研究 The research of Composite plastic Film-forming by TPLA / Oyster shell powder
    姚薇華、曾嬿霖、李恬儀、花鼎峻、黎岱鑫、王家榐、蔡孟廷
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    本研究延續之前成功開發的增韌聚乳酸TPLA塑料,與牡蠣殼粉依不同比例進行混摻,製備得TPLAxOy塑料,更進一步添加脂肪酸醯胺分散劑,製備得TPLAxOyDz塑料,兩批塑料,分別進行吹膜成型試驗。牡蠣殼粉可以提高農膜的適用性與降低成本,在完成種植使用後,分解的農膜中牡蠣殼粉直接進入土壤,可以平衡土壤酸鹼值,提高土壤的營養成分,有多項好處。針對TPLA/牡蠣殼粉複合塑料在熱學性質,機械性質與形態性質進行分析討論。吹膜成型後薄膜在機械性質,耐熱性質與光學性質進行分析討論。

    This research continues the successful development of toughened polylactide TPLA plastic. Mixed with oyster shell powder in different proportions and prepared TPLAxOy plastic. Further adding a fatty acid amides dispersant to prepare TPLAxOyDz plastic. Two batches of plastic were tested separately for blown film forming. Oyster shell powder can improve the applicability of agricultural film and reduce cost. After completing the use of planting. The oyster shell powder in the decomposed agricultural film directly enters the soil, which can balance the soil acid-base value and improve the nutrie…

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    pp. 196-202 全文 PDF