第 27 卷第 4 期（2020）

YKK株式會社從1934年成立以來就一直致力於拉鏈的自製自銷，甚至連拉鏈的機器設備，也都自行研發與設計，創造出許多好品質的拉鏈，對於這將近百年的企業，生產量佔全球市場約三分之一的拉鏈，由於紡織成衣業的興起，競爭對手相繼的出現，尤其是中國區的競爭者，YKK是如何面對，本研究以台灣、中國、美國及日本的商標資料，進行資料分析。研究發現YKK在商標上的策略是以一主多輔為其策略，以"YKK" 品牌商標為主，其他商標為輔，跨類進行商標註冊，並分別在不同類別申請防禦性商標，產品商標、核心商標及經營理念商標等為其商標策略之重點。再透過以全球的觀點佈局，依其海外的姊妹社之競爭優勢為其商標佈局，以母公司的經營策略的方式在進?，?結形成一個全球的企業網。

Since YKK Co. Ltd establishment in 1934, they fully committed their energy on self-making and self -selling their zippers. Even machinery and equipment were all designed and developed by their own research to create the best quality zippers for customers. YKK is almost one century old and is producing about one-third of the zipper in the global market. There are many emerging competitors especially from China due to the rise of textile and garment industry. How did YKK face this situation? The study was based on Taiwan, China, the United States and Japan's trademark information for data analy…

VO2是一種熱致相變材料，接近室溫的相變溫度使其在很多領域擁有應用前景。本研究將微米級VO2顆粒分散在有機矽樹脂中，經由含浸法及製膜與聚酯不織布組合三明治結構結合，製成具有一定溫度自調節能力的導熱材料。實驗證明其共混物的相變溫度在66.5~67.0℃，同時在80℃導熱性能測試中，含浸法樣布隨著VO2顆粒質量比增加，樣布最高溫度和平衡溫度呈現下降趨勢，平衡溫度最低80.9℃，三明治結構樣布在升溫過程中達到相變溫度時升溫速率出現先??后提速變化，平衡溫度隨著VO2顆粒質量比增加而增加，平衡溫度最高96.0℃。本研究對VO2顆粒在聚酯不織布中的導熱性能應用奠定基礎。

VO2 is a thermally induced phase change material with a phase transition temperature close to room temperature which has potential applications in many fields. In this study, VO2 micron silicon particles via an impregnation method and a film with polyester fiber nonwovens compositions combined sandwich structure, made of thermally conductive material having a temperature self-regulating ability. The phase transition temperature of the blends was proved to be 66.5~67.0 °C, and the highest temperature and equilibrium temperature of the sample cloth showed a downward trend with the increase of t…

本研究針對含彈性纖維之尼龍織物染色時，於使用寶藍色艷色系的酸性染料染色後，加入不同種均染劑及固色劑處理，並使用Datacolor 分光儀分析布面色光((ΔL*, Δa*, Δb*))變異及探討織物水洗、耐汗液、日光牢度。結果顯示，在使用陽離子型均染劑後均染效果最佳，但其中兩性離子型均染劑與不加均染劑之布面的外觀力度較為接近。在經水洗、耐汗液、日光測試後，使用陰離子型固色劑之織物比使用陰/非離子型固色劑及陽離子型固色劑佳。

This research aim at dyeing of nylon fabrics composited with spandex, blending ratio of Nylon/spandex were 69/31 and 90/10, respectively. The effect of levelling and fixing agents on high elastic nylon fabrics were studied. The color difference (ΔE), variability of shade (ΔL*, Δa*, Δb*) were measured by Datacolor spectrometer. Additionally, the fastness of washing, perspiration and light for dyed high elastic nylon fabrics were investigated. From experimented results, shown light color dyed fabrics appeared obvious uneven results, using cationic levelling agents could improve levelness and be…

人口高齡化是全球性重要議題，對於高齡者的照護已是各專業領域的焦點，設計符合高齡者的產品是設計師現今的重要工作。本研究訪談高齡者、電子工程師、製鞋業者後，分析市售高齡者鞋款與需求、相關穿戴式裝置後，利用手機App結合Arduino單晶片微控制器應用設計於高齡者鞋樣，將可偵測距離的微小電路板藏在鞋面配件中，警示高齡者走失，提醒照護者。本研究設計製作鞋樣成品後，透過實測及試穿訪談，調查新鞋樣滿意度，提出高齡者防走失穿戴式裝置之需求鞋款，研究成品除了預防高齡者及兒童走失，同時也是防失竊的設計。

The aging of the population is an important global issue. The care for the elderly is the focus of all professional fields. Designing products that meet the needs of the elderly is an important task for designers today. After interviewing senior citizens, electronic engineers, and shoe manufacturers, this study analyzes the market-oriented shoes and needs of the elderly and related wearable devices, and uses the mobile app to combine with the Arduino single-chip microcontroller to design the shoes for the elderly. The tiny circuit board that detects the distance is hidden in the vamp accessor…

本次研究我們以4支橘色分散性染料做為染料分別為(O-30、O61、O73、O288)來進行水染以及超臨界染色的實驗，而我們先將上述的染料以1%、2%、4%及8%來操作此次之實驗，而水染過後我們以六纖附布來為這4支染料使用乾、濕摩擦以及水洗色牢度來做評級而所有染料的評級都來到4級以上。超臨界 CO2染色屬於較環保的染色方式， 此研究使用 4 支橘色分散性染料來檢測在超臨界 CO2 對聚酯進行染色布中並比較其中的均染性與上色率，超臨界CO2染色壓力我們設定在3625psi，溫度設定為120℃而時間為3600秒來進行此次之實驗，最後將此2種方式染色來比較哪一個染料較適合何種染色。

In this study, we used four orange disperse dyes as dyes (O-30, O61, O73, O288) for water dyeing and supercritical dyeing experiments, and we first used the above dyes at 1%. 2%, 4% and 8% to operate the experiment, and after water dyeing, we used the six-fiber attachment to grade the four dyes using dry and wet rubbing and wash fastness. All dyes were rated. Come to level 4 or above. Supercritical CO2 dyeing is a more environmentally friendly dyeing method. This study used 4 orange disperse dyes to detect the dyeing fabric of polyester in supercritical CO2 and compare the leveling and colori…

將羊毛保濕、保暖之特性與TENCEL纖維親水、吸濕、透氣之特性做結合，可以賦予羊毛混紡織物新的機能性與休閒性，提高羊毛織品的價值。本實驗以纖維30/70混紡比之紗線為原料，利用橫編針織機織造在相同織造密度條件下、織成不同織物組織(1X1羅紋、2X1羅紋、2X2羅紋、羅馬織紋、6PK織紋與鳳梨織紋)之織物，再以水分管理儀MMT、自動透濕分析儀及水分天秤測量水分在織物內的傳遞特性、乾燥速率及織物的透濕性，探討不同織物組織對水分傳遞性的影響。實驗得知，橫編TENCEL/羊毛(30/70)纖維混紡織物，以1x2羅紋及鳳梨織紋之織物之水分管理性能優於其他織紋。而再將羊毛/TENCEL混紡纖維與純羊毛進行比較後發現，TENCEL纖維對羊毛之水分管理能力並無太大效果。

The wool blend fabric can get the new functionality, leisurable ability and higher value by combining wool’s moisture retention and Warmth retention with TENCEL’s hydrophilicity, hygroscopicity and breathability. We used the flat bar machine to weave the different fabric structure (1x1 rib, 1x2 rib, 2x2 rib, rome, pk and pineapple) in same weaving density with wool/TENCEL(30/70) yarn. Afterward we measured the fabric’s transitivity by MMT(Moisture Management Tester) and investigated the affection of moisture transmission in different fabric structure. As a result, there weren’t obvious differ…

青、取之于藍，而青于藍，《荀子．勸學篇》道之。近年，地球環境生態遭受嚴重污染及破壞，各種關於「綠色」的環保議題論述如雨後春筍般湧現，全球提倡環境保護、資源永續利用、回歸自然的省思，使天然染色在世界各國受到重視。而臺灣在文化資產與回歸傳統生命源頭的呼聲下，促使傳統藍染工藝與技藝再度受到矚目。臺灣因土質及氣候條件適宜藍草植物的生長，1880年代藍靛出口經濟價值躍居第一位，所染「烏布」等品質優良，聲名遠播；20世紀初葉，因合成染料問世與工業化的影響，臺灣原有的藍靛染色傳統技藝逐漸凋零。而近年在政府的全力支援下，重建藍靛技術；從山藍、木藍的尋找栽種，乃至藍草制靛、建藍技藝等，已漸重現臺灣的傳統藍染技術，並成功推動現代的藍染工藝研發與創新。 天然藍染取材于自然，使用過後色素能分解並回歸于自然，正符合現代綠設計的環保概念，本研究藉由探討藍染文化的背景及特色，透過藍染工藝，分析在不同材質及染色次數的影響下，使用不同防染糊，進行色彩表現差異…

In recent years, the ecological environment has been severely polluted and destroyed; all sorts of going “green” related topics have sprouted. What’s more, people advocate the protection of environment, the conservation of resources, and the preservation of nature: making sure environmental issues are taken seriously in all nations. Under the influence of preservation and valuing cultural assets, traditional indigo dying crafts and arts are given attention once again in Taiwan. Due to certain properties in soil and weather suitable for the plants, value of indigo exports has been first in the…

中國是全球最有發展潛力，且增長最為迅速的奢侈品市場，本研究針對中國自創高端服裝品牌在國際精品市場的競爭力，提出中國政府扶植服裝產業相關政策，了解中國服裝產業如何從中國製造提升到中國品牌。以問卷調查方式，研究消費者的購買意願、品牌偏好、購買心理，系統抽樣後得880份有效問卷，信度、KMO值均達0.7以上，研究中採用ANOVA、Pearson、Chi-square test來進行假設驗證分析。研究發現，所有年齡層都會購買中國自創高端服裝品牌，購買著名國際品牌之消費者也會購買中國品牌。

China is the most potential developing and the fast increasing country in luxurious country. This article mainly focuses on the Competitiveness of China’s Own High-end Fashion Brand in the International Boutique Market. Propose China government's policy of supporting the garment industry. To comprehend the fashion industry in China how to become from production to forming its own brand. The questionnaire consisted of consumer’s purchase intention, brand preference, purchase psychology. Use systematic sampling got 880 valid questionnaires for researching. Cronbach’s Alpha and KMO are 0.7 or mo…

刺子繡含義為「小刺」，是傳統技藝所用的簡單平針的精準描述。刺子繡源自於民眾對服裝保暖與節約的需求，融合鄉村風格與繁複的設計之技法[1]。近幾年刺繡的流行，刺子繡亦跟隨著流行股風潮湧進，然在一般消費者眾對於刺子繡工藝的起源與演變鮮少瞭解。現今有許多日本傳統的工藝伴隨著日常生活，刺子繡融入現代發展已不再局限於服裝用品，廣泛使用在各種家居用品上，亦根據流行性而衍生出各種不同的樣貌。本研究主要探討刺子繡技法的演變與應用，透過歷史文獻與圖案寓意的分析，了解刺子繡從古至今的技法演變與應用變化，以供有興趣的讀者激發的創作靈感與設計者參考運用。 依據研究結果得知，，刺子繡以拱針針法演變出十幾種不同的圖案，將寓意分為自然景觀、祝福與生活環境為主要三項特點。經由刺子繡以簡單的刺繡技巧帶出對文化的傳承，一針一線皆付於著深刻的寓意，色彩及圖樣規範影響下，每一個圖紋的寓意都充斥著對生活、家族、自然的環境及對子嗣的祝福。演變至今富含寓意的圖紋，經過演變…

Abstract The purpose of this study is to understand the history of the Sashiko embroidery and analysis of Sashiko patterns. The definition of Sashiko is a form of decorative reinforcement stitching (running stitch) in Japan and is also named kosashi (little stabs). The Sashiko embroidery is original from rural north of Japan during the Edo period (1615-1868). In Japan there is a long-standing tradition of layering and re-stitching material to create a thicker, warmer more durable garment. Today this technique is often used for purely decorative purposes in quilting and embroidery. This d…

目前市售鞋子鞋底多以黏膠與鞋面相連結，製造成皮鞋。近年也有一體成形的橡膠拖鞋大量生產。皮鞋多清洗不易，致使細菌叢生，或因鞋底磨損，皮面老化等因素無法使用。因此單相滑塊組合鞋設計當可解決以上問題，提供多層次組合穿法的變化需求。單相滑塊組合鞋設計結構包含鞋底、自製鞋面與連結用的單相滑塊鞋墊所組合。此組合選用單相滑塊鞋墊原因為可以將鞋底、自製鞋面緊緊扣住，在行走時不致滑脫。多層次組合穿法的變化需求，可以提供環境的不同，變化穿著的優勢。為現今鞋子市場，提供優異的新選擇，在此我們利用3D列印的技術使用TPE線材進行單相滑塊組合鞋設計。

Currently, the marketed shoe soles are mostly connected with adhesive and vamp. In recent years, there has also been a large number of integrally formed rubber slippers. Leather shoes are not easy to clean, Causing bacterial growth, Or due to wear on the sole, Factors such as aging of the leather surface cannot be used, Therefore, the single-phase slider combination shoe design can solve the above problems. Provides a changing need for a multi-layered combination of wearing methods, Combination of homemade upper and single-phase slider insole for connection, Single-phase slider insole for thi…