華岡紡織期刊 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile
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1025-9678
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中華民國紡織工程學會
Home / Archives / Vol. 27 No. 6 (2020) / Original Research Articles
Original Research Articles · 研究論文

Study on the Influence of Different Mordant Reagents on the Color Appearance of Cotton Fabrics Colored with Gardenia

不同媒染劑用於梔子著色棉織物色外觀影響之研究
  • Yu- Cheng Lu 盧禹丞 1Department of Textile Engineering,Chinese Culture University, 2Department of Materials and Textiles, Oriental Institute of Technology, 3Taiwan Celludye Co., Ltd.
  • Wen-Guey Kuo 郭文貴 ✉ 1Department of Textile Engineering,Chinese Culture University, 2Department of Materials and Textiles, Oriental Institute of Technology, 3Taiwan Celludye Co., Ltd.
  • Shan-Ming Lin 林尚明 1Department of Textile Engineering,Chinese Culture University, 2Department of Materials and Textiles, Oriental Institute of Technology, 3Taiwan Celludye Co., Ltd.
  • Xin-Hung Lin 林鑫宏 1Department of Textile Engineering,Chinese Culture University, 2Department of Materials and Textiles, Oriental Institute of Technology, 3Taiwan Celludye Co., Ltd.
  • Shiau-Yin Chang 張曉瑩 1Department of Textile Engineering,Chinese Culture University, 2Department of Materials and Textiles, Oriental Institute of Technology, 3Taiwan Celludye Co., Ltd.

Abstract

In this experiment, gardenia was used as an extraction material for natural pigments. Cotton fabrics were dyed at different temperatures and with different mordant reagents. The apparent concentration (K/S) value, relative dye-take-up rate, and dyeing fastness were discussed. The results showed that the pH value of the gardenia extract rose and the absorbance value increased. When the sample was extracted with DMF, the absorbance increased with the decrease of the absorption wavelength. When the cotton fabrics were dyed with mordant reagents respectively at 50 °C as well as in a dyeing bath with high pH value, they had higher relative dye-take-up rate than those under the other dyeing condition. This rate might be different by more than 9% between the conditions without mordant and with copper acetate mordant. Furthermore, the relative dye-take-up rate was gently rising with increasing the concentration of gardenia. The dyeing wet-abrasion and washing fastnesses of the colored cotton fabrics were all graded between 2-3 and 3 with the exception of those of dry-abrasion and staining fastnesses 4-5.

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摘要

本實驗以梔子作為天然色素之萃取材料，以不同溫度、方法及添加不同媒染劑對棉織物染色，並探討其表觀濃度(K/S)值、相對上色率及染色色牢度。結果顯示，梔子萃取液pH值上升吸光度值上升，以DMF萃取樣布時隨著吸光波長下降，吸光度上升，以50°C媒染棉織物時，相對上色率較高，當50°C以pH12改變染浴不改變媒染浴，相對上色率較高，以未添加媒染劑與添加醋酸銅媒染劑時上色率皆相差9%以上，而濃度從20克至40克時上升幅度較為平緩，染色織物的耐濕磨擦堅牢度、耐水洗堅牢度及耐棉汙染皆為3/2-3級其餘皆達到4-5級。

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