華岡紡織期刊 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile
ISSN
1025-9678
發行 Publisher
中華民國紡織工程學會
卷 Vol.期 No.276

第 27 卷第 6 期(2020)

Vol. 27 No. 6 (2020)

出版日期 2020-10-31

研究論文Original Research Articles
  1. 349
    圓編一體成型登山機能壓縮褲之設計及人因探討 Design and ergonomics of functional whole garment textile for Hiking/trekking compression pants by circular knitting machine
    趙蓓瑩、蕭弘毅、洪文濱、黃泳彬
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    使用圓編一體成型無縫針織技術來針對登山族群開發一款高山專用壓縮褲。藉由人因設計,於易受傷部位導入不同功能組織結構,達到有效包覆及保護效果。另外紗線選用具蓄熱保暖纖維搭配吸濕排汗纖維,使布料具有保暖、抗紫外線、及良好的吸濕排汗效果。在試穿評估部分,顯示出 ITRI 一體成型壓縮褲除了有良好的穿著感受之外,在漸進式壓縮的測試中,也有很好的表現,故在疲勞程度測試上,效能優於其他兩件商品(2XU、C3fit)。

    We use the circular knitted machine to develop the seamless compression pants for hiking/trekking people. Design and ergonomics of body injured part to introduce different functional knitting fabric structures that can achieve effective protection. In addition, we use the thermal storage fabric and quick dry fabric to let the textile contain warm, anti-ultraviolet, and a good moisture wicking effect. Finally, we invite some people to experience the functional whole garment compression pants, and get very good feedback of our ITRI product. The ITRI product not only has good wearing feeling, bu…

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    pp. 349-354 摘要
  2. 355
    藍染連續複染於服裝設計應用之研究 The reserch of Continuous Counter Staining Indigo Dyeing application of Dress Design
    蔡念欣、林敬文、黃于恬、林青玫
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    近年來,全球提倡與大自然資源的永續發展及環境保護是現今地球發展的一大課題。在紡織領域中,上中下游對於產品研發及製作,都需要對現今所使用的化學產品及染料所造成的汙染進行改善,對於流行時尚的服飾創作亦是如此。紡織行業在製造過程中會產生大量廢水,這些廢水中不僅包含了化學染料及多種有機化學物質,更會對於環境與人類造成危害。因此在有關單位的環保推動下,傳統藍染工藝及技藝正在擴大發展。藍染,取之於自然的天然染料,在使用上對環境可降低對環境的污染問題。藍染工藝的染色技術目前仍多數以手工技藝為主,其作品產量有限,並在布料染色的均勻性及色牢度呈現上,多數均還是以傳統的技藝經驗進行傳承。 本研究擬以自行規劃設計的藍染複染機台,在有限的空間及時間內增加其藍染製品的產量及可行性,並在研究中探討利用藍染複染機台所染色的織物其色彩均勻性及色彩堅牢度的表現,並將其實際運用於服裝設計,展現藍染連續性複染之效果及未來應用之可行性。

    In recent years, the global promotion of sustainable development with natural resources and environmental protection is a major issue for the development of the earth today. In the field of textiles, about the research and manufacture of the product. Nowadays all they need to improve the pollution from chemical products and dye, so does the creation of fashionable clothes. Industry of textile The textile industry has made a large amount of drain water during the manufacture process, these drain water were mixture of many colors and chemical material, which is destructive to our environment a…

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    pp. 355-359 摘要
  3. 360
    以阻燃不織布複合不同密度聚氨酯發泡之加工技術及其特性評估 Processing Technology and Characteristics Evaluation of Flame Retardant Nonwovens Composite Polyether Foam
    官知儀、歐睿仁、黃振鴻、樓靜文、林佳弘
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    本研究選用最佳阻燃/中空複合基布與硬質聚氨酯發泡複合,改變其發泡密度分別為60、70、80 kg/m3。最後以壓縮強力測試、落重式衝擊強力測試及吸音測試進行探討不同發泡密度對於其之影響。經測試結果表明,阻燃不織布複合聚氨酯發泡的機械性能沒有明顯提升,因為主要是發泡密度影響其結果,經測試評估選出阻燃不織布複合聚氨酯發泡在密度60 kg/m3時為複合最佳參數。

    In this study, the best flame retardant/hollow composite base fabric was combined with rigid polyurethane foam to change the foaming density to 60, 70 and 80 kg/m3 respectively. Finally, the effects of different foaming densities on the compressive strength test, the drop weight impact strength test and the sound absorption test were investigated. The test results show that the mechanical properties of the flame retardant non-woven composite polyurethane foam are not significantly improved, because the foaming density mainly affects the results. The flame retardant non-woven composite polyure…

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    pp. 360-364 摘要
  4. 365
    不同媒染劑用於梔子著色棉織物色外觀影響之研究 Study on the Influence of Different Mordant Reagents on the Color Appearance of Cotton Fabrics Colored with Gardenia
    盧禹丞、郭文貴、林尚明、林鑫宏、張曉瑩
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    本實驗以梔子作為天然色素之萃取材料,以不同溫度、方法及添加不同媒染劑對棉織物染色,並探討其表觀濃度(K/S)值、相對上色率及染色色牢度。結果顯示,梔子萃取液pH值上升吸光度值上升,以DMF萃取樣布時隨著吸光波長下降,吸光度上升,以50°C媒染棉織物時,相對上色率較高,當50°C以pH12改變染浴不改變媒染浴,相對上色率較高,以未添加媒染劑與添加醋酸銅媒染劑時上色率皆相差9%以上,而濃度從20克至40克時上升幅度較為平緩,染色織物的耐濕磨擦堅牢度、耐水洗堅牢度及耐棉汙染皆為3/2-3級其餘皆達到4-5級。

    In this experiment, gardenia was used as an extraction material for natural pigments. Cotton fabrics were dyed at different temperatures and with different mordant reagents. The apparent concentration (K/S) value, relative dye-take-up rate, and dyeing fastness were discussed. The results showed that the pH value of the gardenia extract rose and the absorbance value increased. When the sample was extracted with DMF, the absorbance increased with the decrease of the absorption wavelength. When the cotton fabrics were dyed with mordant reagents respectively at 50 °C as well as in a dyeing bath w…

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    pp. 365-370 全文 PDF
  5. 371
    不同材質之吸濕發熱織物與涼感織物其阻熱與涼感性質研究 Research on the Heat resistance and Cool-feeling properties of Heating fabrics and Cool fabrics by different materials
    吳曉東、何治?1、吳弘熠、邢文灝、潘毅鈞
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    以標準環境溫度20±2℃、相對濕度65±4%的環境下,研究吸濕發熱織物與涼感織物,在混紡不同材質下之熱傳導性質,吸濕發熱織物為遠紅外線嫘縈纖維,及混紡50%其他纖維材料,涼感織物為Tencel纖維材料,及混紡不同比例聚酯纖維,以不同紡紗結構製成針織布,比較其涼感熱通量Q-max,及阻熱溫度效果。結果顯示,吸濕發熱織物熱通量較大,Q-max值為0.166至0.214,涼感織物較小,Q-max值為0.114至0.139,吸濕發熱織物之阻熱能力較差,平均阻溫2.4至4.5℃,涼感織物的阻熱溫度較高為4.8至6.7℃。

    Under the standard environment temperature of 20±2℃ and relative humidity of 65±4%, the heat conduction properties of moisture-absorbing heating fabrics and cool-feeling fabrics in blending different materials are studied. The moisture-absorbing and heating fabric is made of far-infrared rayon fiber and blended with 50% other fiber materials. The cool fabric is made of Tencel fiber material and blended with different proportions of polyester fiber. Knitted fabrics were made with different spinning structures, and the cooling heat flux Q-max and heat resistance temperature effects were compare…

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    pp. 371-376 摘要
  6. 377
    化學物質危害的圖案設計 The Dangers of Chemicals
    曹駿成、邱信堯、袁泠、袁汾
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    我們從現今社會上發生的事件,來設計六個跟「化學物質的危害」有關的圖案,最後用數位印花將圖案印成我們要的成品。設計的主題包括生活周遭常見的問題、國內曾發生的重要事件,以及全球正面臨的化學汙染問題。 先用手繪的方式設計圖案,再透過掃描機掃描成電腦圖檔後,使用Photoshop將圖案進行上色,並且修補鉛筆線條的痕跡,然後完成的圖案就能使用數位印花的方式,將圖案印在T恤或是杯子上。

    We designed six images about “The Dangers of Chemicals” from events in today's society. At the end we used digital printing to print the end products we need. The themes included the common problems around our lives, the important events occurred in our country and the problems of chemical pollution facing the world. First we designed the images by hand painting and then we used image scanner to scan into the computer image files. We used Photoshop to color the images and fixed the traces of pencil line. After that the finished images could use digital printing to print on a T-shirt or a cup.

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    pp. 377-381 摘要
  7. 382
    商用紫色分散性染料在水中以及超臨界二氧化碳中之染色性探討 Discussion on the dyeability of commercial purple disperse dyes in water and supercritical carbon dioxide
    駱韋丞、錢俊宇、林尚明
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    隨超臨界CO2染色技術日益成熟,而現有可用於超臨界CO2染色的染料種類較少,因此,本研究選用紫33、紫26、紫93、紫93:1等四支商用紫色分散性染料作分析和比較。 濃度1% o.w.f.(去除分散劑)之染料紫33、紫26,以超臨界CO2染色之K/S值落在水染染色濃度2%-4% o.w.f之間的K/S值,由此可知染料V33、V26去除分散劑後較適合用於超臨界CO2染色,而紫93、紫93:1,以超臨界CO2染色之K/S值皆低於濃度2% o.w.f水染染色的K/S值,因此染料紫93、紫93:1較不適合用於超臨界CO2染色。

    With the increasingly mature technology of supercritical CO2 dyeing, and there are fewer types of dyes available for supercritical CO2 dyeing, therefore, four commercial violet disperse dyes such as violet 33, violet 26, violet 93, and violet 93:1 were selected as the research Analysis and comparison. Dye Violet 33 and Violet 26 with a concentration of 1% o.w.f. (removing dispersant), the K/S of supercritical CO2 dyeing falls within the K/S value of water dyeing concentration of 2% -4% o.w.f. The dyes V33 and V26 are more suitable for supercritical CO2 dyeing after removing the dispersant, w…

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    pp. 382-390 全文 PDF
  8. 391
    水洗條件對聚酯針織布微纖維脫毛率之研究 Study on Microfiber Shedding Ratio of Polyester Knitted Fabric Sorted by Washing Conditions
    邱揚順、周啟雄
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    微纖維是近年來被人類所重視的污染物之一,聚酯纖維洗滌之後的脫毛不易分解,且在環境中分佈廣泛非常不利於我們的生態環境。本研究基於環境友善的理念,以AATCC 61的水洗方法為基準在洗滌時間固定的條件下探討水量、鋼珠數量及溫度等三個參數的改變,對聚酯針織刷毛服飾布料經過洗滌發生摩擦與碰撞後所造成的微纖維脫落,而導致環境與生態的污染。

    Microfibers are one of the pollutants which have been regarding by human beings in recent years. The fibers removal after launder process of polyester fabrics is not easy to decompose, and the widespread distribution in the environment is very unfavorable to our ecological environment. This study is focused on the concept of environmental friendliness, and based on the water washing method of AATCC 61, to study the three parameters - water quantity, steel ball quantity, and temperature while all were under fixed washing time, to discuss the microfiber shedding caused by friction and collision…

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    pp. 391-394 摘要
  9. 395
    4T異形聚酯與亞麻混紡紗線開發與織物吸濕性能研究 The Study on 4T/Flax Blended Yarn and Moisture Absorbency of Frabic
    邱梓瑜、古德興、黃淇
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    過去及近年已有許多異形纖維斷面開發的研究,但4T形聚酯研究較少見,因此本研究將探討4T形聚酯紗線基本性能,並且與4T/亞麻纖維混紡做比較。本文也將4T與4T/亞麻纖維紗線織造成針織布料,而本研究將選擇在吸濕速乾條件下,常見的四角pk及雙層提花布組織,進行織物液態水份管理測試,探討比較其吸濕性能。

    There have been many researches on the development of profiled fiber sections from then until now . However, research on 4T polyester is less common. Therefore, this study will investigate the basic properties of 4T polyester yarns and compare with 4T/flax fiber blends. This article also discusses 4T and 4T/flax fiber blend knitted fabrics. we will select the mesh and double jacquard knitted fabrics to be our experimental proto sample, and test the liquid water management of fabrics, finally discussing and analyzing Its moisture absorption properties.

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    pp. 395-400 摘要
  10. 401
    電紡聚己內酯 /聚丙烯酸複合奈米纖維製程參數研究 Process Parameters of Electrospun Polycaprolactone/Polyacrylic Acid Composite Nanofibers
    黃彥禎、黃建霖
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    聚己?酯(Polycaprolactone, PCL)其化學結構的疏水性,透過添加丙烯酸(Acrylic acid,AA)單體,由於AA具有較佳的吸水性,改善PCL疏水性,以達到增加細胞貼附的性質。本實驗透過添加不同比例之AA單體於PCL電紡溶液,並加入交鏈劑乙二醇二甲基丙烯酸酯(Ethylene glycol dimethylacrylate, EGDMA)與光起始劑(2-Hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone),探討PCL/AA溶液之導電及黏度的性質,並藉由靜電紡絲與光聚合方式製備不同比例PCL/PAA複合奈米纖維膜,且PAA具有抗菌效果,應用於傷口敷料纖維膜。

    In this experiment, a composite nanofiber membrane was prepared by electrospinning technology and applied to a wound dressing fiber membrane. The hydrophobicity of the chemical structure of polycaprolactone (PCL) is improved by adding acrylic acid (Acrylic acid, AA) monomer to improve the hydrophobic properties of PCL. This experiment explores the addition of different proportions of AA monomer and also adds Ethylene glycol dimethylacrylate (EGDMA) and 2-Hydroxy-2-methylpropiophenone were used to prepare different ratio of PCL/PAA by electrospinning and photopolymerization. PCL/PAA composite …

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    pp. 401-405 摘要